CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES
MERIONETHSHIRE
The, Cambridge- University Press
IJanf:
PHYSICAL MAP OF
MERIONETH
CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES
General Editor: F. H. H. GUILLEMARD, M.A., M.D.
MERIONETHSHIRE
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS
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All rights reserved
Cambridge County Geographies
MERIONETHSHIRE
by
A. MORRIS, F. R. HIST. Soc.
With Maps, Diagrams and Illustrations
Cambridge :
at the University Press
(lamtmUge :
PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A.
AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS
ft*
PREFACE
r I ^HE author desires to acknowledge his indebtedness
* to various works in English and Welsh on the
history and antiquities of Merionethshire, especially the
articles of the late W. W. E. Wynne of Peniarth on
the architecture of the most remarkable of the churches.
His thanks are due to Mr Pryce Williams of Towyn for
assistance rendered in the chapter on Fisheries and Fishing
Stations, and to Mr D. A. Jones of Harlech and the late
Thomas Ruddy of the Pale Gardens for help in the
preparation of the chapter on Natural History.
A. MORRIS.
October 1913.
CONTENTS
PAGE
1. County and Shire The name Merionethshire. Its
Origin and Meaning . . ; .*.* . . i
2. General Characteristics . . . * - 4
3. Size. Shape. Boundaries . . , . . ... 8
4. Surface and General Features . . . . . 12
5. Watershed. Rivers .. . . . . 17
6. Lakes ... . . -23
7. Geology . 28
8. Natural History ,. '.''; 37
9. The Coast-line . .- . -44
10. Climate . .' . .*''. .'... . . 5 1
1 1 . People Race, Dialect, and Population . T . 57
12. Agriculture Main Cultivations, Woodlands, Stock 66
13. Industries and Manufactures ... .70
14. Fisheries and Fishing Stations . . . .78
15. History of Merionethshire ..... 83
1 6. History Later Times ... . . . .91
17. Antiquities . ' . . -. . . 97
1 8. Architecture (a) Ecclesiastical. Churches and Abbeys 106
19. Architecture (b) Military. Castles . .116
20. Architecture (c) Domestic. Famous Seats. Manor
Houses, Farms, Cottages . . . -123
21. Communications Past and Present. . . .130
22. Administration and Divisions Ancient and Modern 138
23. The Roll of Honour of the County . . .145
24. The Chief Towns and Villages of Merionethshire . 154
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
The Vale of Festiniog 5
The Mawddach, from Panorama Walk .... 7
Aberdovey . . . . . . . . . 9
Rhaiadr Cwm, near Festiniog. . . . . .12
Cader Idris: the Summit from the Saddle . . .13
The Bird Rock, Towyn 14
Barmouth: Diphwys . . . . . . .16
Prysor Valley, Rhaiadr Ddu . . . . . .20
The River Artro at Llanbedr . . . . .21
Llanfihangel-y-Pennant . . . , . . .22
Bala Lake and Llanycil Church ..... 24
Talyllyn . . . . . . . . .26
Cader Idris: the Precipice . . . . . -33
Towyn: the Dysynni 45
Barmouth Estuary . . . . . . .47
Ynys Giftan ......... 49
Menhirs, Llanbedr ........ 59
Remains of Goidel Hut, near Harlech . . . .61
The Glaslyn River: Snowdon in the distance . . 68
Oakeley Quarries, Blaenau Festiniog . . . .72
Splitting and dressing Slates, Blaenau Festiniog . . 73
Rhaiadr Mawddach and Gold Mine, Dolgelly . . 75
The Beach, Llwyngwril . 80
The Dwyryd River 81
The "Roman Steps," near Cwm Bychan . . -85
Vlll
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
The Gateway, Harlech Castle . . . . -94
Caer Drewyn, near Corwen . . . . . . 101
Bronze dagger-knife found at Tomen-y-Mur . . .102
Centurial Stones from Tomen-y-Mur . . . .103
Llanfor Church . . . . . . . . 1 1 o
Llanaber Church . . . . . . . 1 1 1
Llanegryn Church . . . 112
Llanfair Church . . . . . . . .114
Cymmer Abbey . . . . . . . .115
Harlech Castle 119
Ruins of the Keep, Bere Castle . . . ' . .121
The Hengwrt . . . . . . . . . 124
Plas Rhiwlas ... - 128
Old Houses, Dolgelly . . . * . . . .129
Old Coach Bridge, Dinas Mawddwy . . . 133
Barmouth Bridge and Cader Idris . . . . .137
Dolgelly . -144
Thomas Edward Ellis .... . . .146
Tyn-y-Bryn . . . . . . . . .151
Corwen . . . * . 157
Diagrams . . . . . . . . .163
MAPS
Merionethshire, Topographical . . . Front Cover
Geological .... Back Cover
England and Wales, showing Annual Rainfall . . 53
Sketch map showing the Chief Castles of Wales and the
Border Counties to face p. 1 1 6
ILLUSTRATIONS ix
The illustrations on pp. 5, 7, 9, 13, 14, 16, 20, 21, 22, 24,
26, 33, 45, 47 59 7 2 > 73, 75, 85, no, in, 119, 128, 129, 133,
137, 144 and 157 are from photographs by Messrs F. Frith and
Co.; those on pp. 61 and 103 from photographs by Mr D. H.
Parry, Harlech ; those on pp. 1 2 1 and 1 5 1 from photographs by
Messrs George and Son, Corris; those on pp. 112 and 114 from
photographs by Mr W. M. Dodson, Bettws-y-Coed; that on p. 94
from a photograph by Dr Guillemard; that on p. 12 from a print
published by Mr R. L. Jones, Machynlleth ; that on p. 115 from
a photograph by Mr Jones, Dolgelly; that on p. 124 from a
photograph by Mr Arnfield, Dolgelly; that on p. 146 from a
photograph kindly supplied by Mrs Ellis; those on pp. 101 and
1 02 are reproduced from Archaeologia Cambrensis and the Archaeo-
logical Journal respectively ; the sketch map facing p. 1 1 6 is from
a drawing by Mr C. J. Evans.
i. County and Shire. The name
Merionethshire. Its Origin and
Meaning.
The division of Wales into shires first took place in
the reign of Edward the First. Before the conquest of
Wales by that monarch there was no division of the
Principality into shire ground as understood in English
annals. The Shire (i.e. the part shorn off, or cut off, from
the Anglo-Saxon word scir) was a Saxon institution brought
into use at an early period, as early as the seventh cen-
tury. In the code of laws of Ina of Wessex, we find
portions of the country under his rule divided into scir
ground, and each division was placed under an officer
who was styled a scir-gerefa, i.e. a shire-reeve or sheriff.
He was the natural leader of the shire in war and peace.
His duties were to look after the king's rights, dues and
fines, and he acted as the sovereign's representative as
regards finance and the execution of justice.
County is a word of Norman origin (comte] which
came into use in our country after the Conquest, when
the administration of each shire was entrusted to a great
earl or baron, who was often a count (comte) , i.e. a com-
panion of the king.
M, M. i
2 MERIONETHSHIRE
The shiring of Wales was the direct outcome of the
extension of English influence into our land. It took
place upon two separate occasions, the first as stated above,
and the second in the reign of Henry the Eighth. Con-
sequently the shires of Wales do not stand in the same
relation to the early history of the particular districts of
which they are a share, as the real shires of England
proper stand to old English history. They are really
administrative districts formed for convenience, rather
than organic divisions of land and people like Sussex and
Kent, which correspond to original tribal kingdoms. Of
the Welsh counties Anglesey's insular position gave it a
unity and compactness of its own, but as regards the
others, Cardiganshire alone in extent of territory and
distinctive characteristics is in an analogous position to
that of Sussex and Kent among English counties. It
probably corresponded with the ancient principality of
Ceredigion, and to this, perhaps, the strong local feeling
and distinctive type of character still associated with
that county are due. The other counties have, however,
been built up of the immemorial territorial divisions
(hundreds and commotes) of the Cymry.
The county of Merioneth is one of the eight counties
which came into existence by the Statute of Rhuddlan
in 1284. The name, however, is of much earlier date as
the name of a cantrev. In its Welsh form of Meirionydd
we are taken back to a period some eight centuries
earlier.
The tradition is that about 420 A.D. Cunedcla, a
powerful British chief who held his court at Carlisle, was
COUNTY AND SHIRE 3
invited by his kindred, the Brythons, to come and assist
them, as they were sore pressed by the Gwyddyl or
Goidels from across the Irish Sea. In right of his mother,
as we are told in the Welsh pedigrees, Cunedda was
able to claim large tracts of territory in Wales. He
therefore most readily responded to the appeal, and by
the aid of his numerous sons succeeded in expelling
the Goidels from the greater part of the territory.
Cunedda's men, it is recorded, settled permanently in
the land, and so did his sons, except the eldest, named
Tybiawn, who had died some time before in Manaw
Gododin, as the territory of the north was called.
The names of the sons have survived in the territories
which they wrested from the Gwyddyl. Ceredig occupied
Ceredigion (Cardiganshire); Arwystl seized upon Arwystli,
a part of Montgomeryshire; Edeyrn made his abode in
Edeyrnion in our present county ; Einion possessed him-
self of Caereinion in Montgomeryshire. The sons of
Tybiawn were likewise granted their shares, in right of
the eldest son. Maelor obtained Dyffryn Maelor, and
Meirion possessed the territory called Cantrev Meirion,
" the Hundred of Meirion," which in its turn gave its
name to Meirionydd, and the county of Merioneth.
By the Statute of Rhuddlan there were added to
the cantrev of Meirionydd the commotes of Penllyn,
Edeyrnion, and Ardudwy, and these together constituted
the shire of Merioneth until the time of Henry VIII.
When the Principality became ripe for its union with
England in the time of the Welsh sovereigns, the Tudors,
an "Act of Union " was passed, by which five new shires
i 2
4 MERIONETHSHIRE
were created from the Marcher lordships. This Act
added to the county of Merioneth the lawless lordship of
Mawddwy.
2. General Characteristics.
Merionethshire is a maritime county of North Wales,
washed on its western side by Cardigan Bay, and bor-
dered on the north, east, and south by the counties of
Carnarvon, Denbigh, Montgomery, and Cardigan respec-
tively.
It is more mountainous than any of the North Wales
counties with the exception perhaps of Carnarvonshire.
Its deep and secluded valleys, with the ruggedness and
variety of its elevated districts, give it a particular charm
and interest. The varied panoramic views from its
heights surpass anything to be seen in Wales.
Portions of the county, by the nature of its rocks, are
devoted to the industry of slate-quarrying. The best
slate in the world for roofing purposes is worked in
various parts of the county, but mainly in the north.
Ours, too, is the only county in Wales in which gold has
been found in quantities sufficient to pay for working;
but, in the main, Merionethshire is an agricultural and
pastoral county, the great proportion of the people being
devoted to husbandry.
Merionethshire is one of the most Welsh in customs
and habits of all the counties of Wales. Its people have
not been influenced to the same extent as other Welsh
6 MERIONETHSHIRE
counties by the influx of the English wave. In the most
numerous instances business and trade dealings are carried
on in the vernacular, and the native inhabitants treasure
their ancient language as the worthiest of their inherit-
ances.
The county has figured largely in the history of the
Principality from the earliest times. Its remains of the
prehistoric past form an interesting chapter in the story
of our land. The Brythonic wave of our Celtic forebears
pushed itself from the plains of England into Wales by
way of large tracts in this county, and terminated like
the point of a broad wedge at the mouth of the Dovey.
From this fact has arisen the name of the Brythonic tribe
in the second wave of Celtic migration, Tr Ardyfiaid, or
as it was known to the Romans, the Ordovices. The
Goidels and the Brythons have left traces of their occupa-
tion in the vast number of tumuli, menhirs, stone circles,
and cromlechs now seen in elevated situations in various
parts of the county.
The remains of Roman times are also very interesting.
These comprise military roads, camps, and stations in all
parts of the county. Other remains, such as coins, in-
scribed stones, and Samian ware prove that Roman civili-
sation held sway in secluded corners of this county as
well as in the more accessible parts of England and the
borders, while the ruins of castles and ecclesiastical
buildings show it to have been a not unimportant
territory in medieval times.
Its rivers are famous all the world over for their
incomparable scenery. The Dee, with its great inland
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 7
sheet of water snugly sheltered by the Arenigs and the
Berwyns, has been more sung about and visited than most
of the rivers of Cambria. The Mawddach with its broad
tidal estuary and its numerous rushing contributory streams
has noble scenery to show, and the district through which
it flows is sometimes called the British Tyrol, Its lakes
and waterfalls are equal in beauty to those in any part of
I
The Mawddach, from Panorama Walk
the kingdom, and are an unceasing source of attraction to
hosts of sight-seers at all seasons of the year. The woody
character of its valleys and uplands make it a delightful
land. No part of its surface can be said to be tame or
monotonous. From every standpoint our county of
Merioneth is one of the most charming and interesting
of all the Welsh counties.
MERIONETHSHIRE
3. Size. Shape. Boundaries.
Merionethshire is one of the largest counties of North
Wales, comprising an area of 602 square miles with a super-
ficial surface in the administrative county of 418,475 acres
excluding water. Its water area totals 3897 acres. It
occupies nearly one-twelfth of the whole area of Wales,
and ranks as seventh in point of size of the twelve Welsh
counties. In the geographical or ancient county area it
would take rank as sixth in Wales.
Its extreme length, from north-east to south-west,
measured in a straight line drawn along the southern
contour of the county from Berwyn on the Dee
to Aberdovey on the Dovey estuary, is 46 miles. Its
greatest breadth, measured from Llyn-y-Ddinas in the
north, near the village of Beddgelert, to near Mallwyd
on the borders of Montgomeryshire, is 29 miles.
In shape, speaking generally, the county has the
appearance of a scalene triangle, having its shorter side
on the west where it faces Cardigan Bay. The base, its
longest side, lies contiguous to Montgomeryshire for a
length of 37 miles, with the remaining nine miles touch-
ing Denbighshire. The apex of this triangle is at the
west corner of Llyn-y-Ddinas, whilst the angles of the
base are respectively at the village of Berwyn on the Dee
and at Aberdovey.
In a perambulation of the limits of the county it will
be well to make our start at the apex of this irregular
triangle. We shall be compelled to observe that, with the
SIZE SHAPE BOUNDARIES
9
exception of the west side, our county is so circumscribed
by high mountains that there are only a very few artificial
boundaries necessary. Nature has fulfilled her part in
an admirable manner ; she has supplied the county with
natural boundaries in her high mountains, rivers, and
sea.
Leaving Llyn-y-Ddinas the boundary line takes us
first to the top of the Glyders, high mountains forming
Aberdovey
an offshoot of the Snowdon group. Hence we proceed
by an arc of a circle to the north of the steep and rugged
Cynicht, until it encloses the slate district of Festiniog
within its bounds. The circumference of this arc of a
circle descends by Llyn-y-Dywarchen, a charming sheet
of water, and leaves the limits of Carnarvonshire to enter
those of Denbighshire.
10 MERIONETHSHIRE
We now follow it a little to the north of the moun-
tain called Arenig Fach, from which it proceeds in a
north-easterly direction across the elevated expanse of the
Gylchedd, to ascend the ridge of Carnedd Filast and
then drop into the valley of the upper course of the
Alwen. It follows this little stream for about two miles
until it approaches Cerrig-y-Drudion on the Denbigh-
shire side of the boundary. The line of demarcation now
takes a southerly course, and forms what may be called
three-fourths of a circle to cross the Alwen again about
two miles to the south of Bettws Gwerfil Goch. It
assumes a northward direction a little to the west of this
village, and reaches Llanfihangel Glyn Myfyr. Here it
proceeds eastward for four miles, and then by an artificial
limit makes for the valley of the Clwyd, which it crosses
at the village of Derwen. A mile beyond this north-
eastern limit an artificial boundary again marks the line
of demarcation on the eastern side until it arrives at the
village of Berwyn on the Dee.
From Berwyn our direction is now south-west by a
zigzag course until we reach the summit of Moel Ferna
in the Berwyn group. Proceeding along the length of
this chain of mountains for nearly ten miles we arrive at
Cader Berwyn, and here we leave Denbighshire to beat
the bounds of Montgomeryshire. The boundary line
continues along the Berwyn chain as far as the pass
of Bwlch-y-Groes. On our right is the valley of the
Dee with Bala Lake in its course ; and on our left, in
closer proximity to the mountains, is Lake Vyrnwy, the
great artificial reservoir of the city of Liverpool. These
SIZE SHAPE BOUNDARIES 11
mountains separate the basin of the Dee from that of
the Vyrnwy and the Severn.
At Bwlch-y-Groes we cross the remarkable pass con-
necting the two valleys. The scenery here is very wild
and picturesque. We proceed for a few miles to the
south and cross the summit of Carreg-y-big, leaving Llan-
y-Mawddwy nestling in the valley below. Five miles
further to the south we arrive at Nant Dugoed, where
we cross the turnpike road from Llanfair Caereinion to
Mallwyd, which is only five miles distant. The line of
demarcation, once more an artificial one, passes to the
other side of the valley of the upper Dovey ; this river
constituting the boundary between Mallwyd and the
village of Aberangell. It then crosses the ridge separating
the valley of the Dovey from that of its tributary, the
Dulas. This latter stream in its course by Corris to
Machynlleth, where it joins the Dovey, forms the boun-
dary between our county and Montgomeryshire.
From Machynlleth to the sea the Dovey is again the
dividing line until we almost reach the estuary, when
it leaves Montgomeryshire and has Cardiganshire as its
neighbouring county to the south.
On the west, from the estuary of the Dovey to the
mouth of the Glaslyn river on the borders of Carnarvon-
shire, Merionethshire is washed by the sea. For the
remainder of the western limits of the county the Glaslyn
is the dividing line. It comes from Llyn-y-Ddinas and
proceeds by Beddgelert through the gorge of Aberglaslyn,
then by a sinuous course across the reclaimed Morfa it
finds its way to the sea at Traeth Mawr.
12
MERIONETHSHIRE
By this perambulation of the county across its rugged
and broken peaks it will have been realised how difficult
it would be to find a district so hemmed in by mountains
as our county of Merioneth. This circumscribed character
of the land has made for the striking and distinguishing
characteristics of its people, and this influence must have
been exerted with tenfold force in the days before railways
and excellent roads opened out the interior.
Rhaiadr Cwm, near Festiniog
(From an old print by W. Radclyffe, after a painting by David Cox)
4. Surface and General Features.
As we have seen in our last chapter Merionethshire is
an exceedingly mountainous county. In some respects it
may be said that of all the Welsh counties it is the most
diversified, for mountains and hills occur more universally
than in the other counties. The only lowland territory
SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 13
apart from its deep valleys is the narrow strip along the
coast between the Ardudwy mountains and the sea. Its
elevations are not as high as those of the neighbouring
county of Carnarvon, but many of its peaks are very fine.
They abound in bare precipitous cliffs and rugged heights
and the slopes of many of them are streams of sliding
fragments of wrecks of stone.
Cader Idris : the Summit from the Saddle
No isolated and solitary peak of the Welsh mountains
shows such a wreck of stone as Cader Idris. With an
elevation of 2927 feet above the sea-level, it marks the
starting point from which a long chain of primitive moun-
tains extends in a north-east direction to the Berwyns
14
MERIONETHSHIRE
and on to the borders of Shropshire. This chain has a
fine array of towering heights. The Aran Mawddwy is
higher than the Gader, and reaches an altitude of
2970 feet ; and there are others, such as Aran Benllyn,
2901 feet, which closely approximate the Gader.
Cader Idris throws off spurs to the south-west which
The Bird Rock, Towyn
gradually decline in elevation the further we proceed,
until we arrive at the estuary of the Dovey. A feature
of one of these ridges is the Craig Aderyn the curious
"bird-rock" as it is called, which is the home of countless
sea-fowl. It lifts its bold and isolated head some six or
seven hundred feet above the banks of the Dysynni river.
SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 15
A little to the north-east on the slope of another hill of
this ridge are the ruined remains of Castell-y-Bere, a
famous old medieval fortress, while on the opposite hill
across the valley of the Dysynni is the reputed cave
refuge of the great Cymric hero, Owain Glyndwr.
Proceeding southwards in the direction of Aberdovey
we have Trum-tair-taren, Moel-y-Geifr, and Trum Gelli,
which run on to the ridge known as Mynydd Bychan ;
and still further south we come to Mynydd-y-Llyn,
having Llyn Barfog, a charming little lake, nestling at
its base.
The impressive Berwyn chain, occupying the south-
east border of the county and forming the southern
watershed of the river Dee, forms a remarkable contrast
to the bareness of the Gader group by the richness of its
vegetation, especially on the Deeside slopes. Some of its
heights very nearly approximate the altitude of Cader
Idris and the two Arans. The chief are Cader Fronwen
2575 feet, Cader Berwyn 2716 feet, Moel Ferna 2070
feet, Moel-y-Geifr 2055 feet, and Moel-y-Cerrig-duon
2050 feet.
Nine miles to the north-east of Dolgelly the range of
the Gader throws off a spur to the north to join the
Arenigs. This spur forms the dividing watershed of the
Dee and the Mawddach. The country here is wild and
secluded, and has remains of carneddau and tumuli in
abundance.
The Arenig series of mountains occupies the whole
of the north of the county. The most remarkable heights
are the Arenig Fawr with its double-headed ridge, 2800
16 MERIONETHSHIRE
feet, Moelwyn Mawr 2527 feet, Cynicht 2763 feet,
Arenig Fach 2250 feet, and Carnedd Filast 2197 feet.
Extending from the valley of the Mawddach to that
of Maentwrog, and running nearly parallel to the coast,
we have the interesting group known as the Llechwedd
chain, or mountains of Ardudwy, which run up from
Barmouth and terminate in the Diphwys at a height of
Barmouth : Diphwys
2467 feet. Beyond this rises Craig-y-Cau 2063 feet,
the Llethar 2475 feet, Rhinog Fach 2300 feet, and
Rhinog Fawr 2362 feet.
The famous Roman road known as the Via Occi-
dentalis or the Sarn Helen traversed these mountains.
Between the Rhinog Fawr and Llyn Cwm Bychan
there are what are usually called the Roman Steps. It is
SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 17
surmised that these steps were made by the Roman soldiers
to facilitate the conveyance of the ores from the mines.
The sides of these mountains seem to have been rent
asunder by some mighty convulsion into a thousand pre-
cipices, forming at their tops rows of shelves which the
native-folk compare to sills of dovecotes, and call Cerrig
Colomenodj i.e. " Rocks of the doves." The scenery of
this extraordinary pass and that of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy,
for its wild character and its ruins of stone, rivals in its
way anything to be seen in the Alps, and the views
from the summits of the mountains are magnificent.
The panoramic view overlooking Barmouth and the
Mawddach estuary, and the "Precipice Walk" of the
Upper Mawddach gorge on the slopes of Moel Cynwch,
near the ancient domain of Nannau, are especially striking.
Moel Offrwm, "the Mountain of Sacrifice," is close by,
and to the north of Llanfachreth in the same district
stands Rhobell Fawr, 2409 feet, a solitary eminence.
5. Watershed. Rivers.
The chief watershed of the county is the high ridge
dividing Merionethshire into east and west, referred to in
the previous chapter. The fall of the east drains into the
Dee and its tributaries, whilst that of the west forms the
streams which flow into Cardigan Bay. The most im-
portant rivers are the Dee, the Mawddach, the Dovey,
the Dysynni, the Dwyryd, and the Glaslyn.
The Dee, the principal river of North Wales, rises
by a small streamlet in the Dduallt at an elevation of
M. M. 2
18 MERIONETHSHIRE
2OOO feet above the sea-level, and about four miles to the
west of Bala Lake. The Great Western railroad from
Dolgelly, after its ascent to Drws-y-nant near Aran
Benllyn on the highest ridge of the wild watershed,
follows in its descent to Llanuwchllyn the course of the
infant Dyfrdwy, as the Dee is called in the vernacular.
The Dyfrdwy before entering the lake receives on the
right the Twrch from Aran Benllyn, and on the left
the Lliw from Moel Llyfnant, which washes the base of
the slope where the remains of Cam Dochan Castle stand.
The three streams meet at the little village of
Llanuwchllyn, and the united waters enter Bala Lake,
or Llyn Tegid, the largest natural lake in the whole of
Wales. At the eastern end of the lake stands the little
town of Bala, and here the Dee leaves the lake and
receives the Tryweryn, a tributary rising in the Arenig
Fach, which rushes down a strong clear stream, through
charming scenes, to pass through the wooded gorges of
Rhiwlas with its fine old mansion. The waters of the
Tryweryn and Dee unite in the flat meadows below
the lake.
The Dee now wends its way for twelve miles through
the sweet Vale of Edeyrnion, a broad and noble river. In
times of heavy rain it is a sheet of seething foam rushing
over beds of broken boulders, but in summer days a placid
waterway like a broad band of silver. Its course leads
through the woody glades of the villages of Llandderfel
and Llandrillo. On our right we pass the famous battle-
ground of Crogen on the summit above, and on our left
is the mouth of the Alwen, a tributary stream from the
WATERSHED RIVERS 19
Denbighshire border. We now come to the well-wooded
enclosures of Rug, where in the twelfth century,
GrufFydd ap Cynan, King of Gwynedd, was entrapped,
and to Corwen, an old-world market town, tucked under
the dark shoulders of the mountains. Caer Drewyn is on
the left bank, a famous encampment in ancient times.
After leaving Llansantffraid Glyndyfrdwy the river passes
the village of Berwyn, and there leaves the county to
continue its course through Denbighshire.
Between Llansantffraid bridge and Llangollen in the
month of April, when the spring trout-fishing is at its
best, we may see the old-world coracle used for fishing.
The Dee is the only river in North Wales where this
survival of the ancient Britons is still put to practical
and common use.
The Mawddach has its rise in the same central water-
shed as the Dee. It comes from the spur known as
Craig-y-Ddinas, and then descends through Cwm Allt-
Iwyd into one of the most lovely glens of picturesque
Wales. Before receiving the Afon Gain, which flows
from the upper reaches of the central watershed, the main
stream has passed the Gwynfynydd gold mine, which
yielded considerable quantities of the valuable ore in years
gone by. The famous Pistyll-y-Cain waterfall is at this
spot. Here also may be seen Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, and
about a mile above Ty'n-y-Groes another cataract called
Y Rhaiadr Ddu, situated near the confluence of the
Camlan with the Mawddach.
The Mawddach is joined at the Ganllwyd by the Afon
Eden from Craig Ddrwg in the Ardudwy mountains. The
2 2
20 MERIONETHSHIRE
main stream then takes a straight course to Llanelltyd,
and passes the ruins of Cymmer Abbey on its left bank,
before it receives the Afon Wnion from Drws-y-Nant
Uchaf. The course of the Wnion for the greater part
of its length to Dolgelly is in a deep chasm of serrated
Prysor Valley, Rhaiadr Ddu
rocks. It receives the Clywedog two miles above Dol-
gelly, which is famed for the rushing cataracts of the
Torrent Walk."
At Llanelltyd the Mawddach becomes a tidal river,
the tide flowing up to the bridge near the village. Upon
its approach to Penmaenpool the river gradually widens
WATERSHED RIVERS
21
into a broad waterway. At Bontddu on the right bank
is the Clogau gold mine, which is systematically worked
at the present time.
The mountains of Ardudwy are drained by the Afon
Artro which rises in Llyn Cwmbychan near the Roman
Steps. It flows swiftly over a rocky bed, hidden at times
by dense woods, until it arrives at Llanbedr. Before
The River Artro at Llanbedr
reaching the latter village the Artro receives the Nant
Col from the gorge of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy. The
united waters find their way to the sea at the northern
end of Mochras Island.
The Dwyryd, which enters the sea at the Traeth
Bach, having flowed through the beautiful vale of Fes-
tiniog, is formed, as the name implies, by the union of two
22
MERIONETHSHIRE
streams. These are the Goidol and Tegwel, which first
unite and are afterwards joined by the Cynfael. The
Goidol drains Llyn Cwmorthin to the north of Tany-
grisiau, whilst the Tegwel comes from Carreg-y-Fran to
the east of Llyn-y-Manod. Before these streams unite
at Rhyd-y-Sarn, the Tegwel has passed by Beddau Gwyr
Ardudwy u the graves of the men of Ardudwy " with
Llanfihangel-y- Pennant
Llyn-y-Morwynion a little to the south. A little below
Rhyd-y-Sarn the Cynfael flows in, and from the con-
fluence the united streams are called the Dwyryd. In
the bed of the river here arises the singular isolated
column of rock known as " Hugh Llwyd's pulpit." The
Dwyryd continues its course through a beautiful valley
by the little village of Maentwrog. About a mile below
Maentwrog it receives the Afon Prysor, which rises in
WATERSHED RIVERS 23
the Graig Wen, an elevation to the east of the Roman
station of Tomen-y-Mur, and flows by Trawsfynydd in
a most circuitous course.
The Dovey rises in Craiglyn Dyfi on the eastern de-
clivity of Aran Mawddwy. It flows by Llan-y-Mawddwy,
Dinas Mawddwy, and Mallwyd, and is fed by numerous
contributary streams, the Dulas, the Llefeni, the Geryst,
the Cly wedog, and the Pennal, and flows for twelve miles
of its course through Montgomeryshire.
The Dysynni rises in the southern declivities of Cader
Idris and flows through Llanfihangel-y-Pennant, a small
village in a beautiful situation, then by Castell-y-Bere and
Craig Aderyn to skirt the shady glades of Peniarth and
the little village of Llanegryn. It enters the sea about
two miles to the north of Towyn.
6. Lakes.
The lakes of Merionethshire are of exceedingly great
interest on account of their situation, their beauty, and
the wealth of folk-lore connected with them. First
and foremost we have Bala Lake, or Llyn Tegid, lying
between the Berwyn chain and the Arenigs. Then
come the remarkable series known as the Cader Idris
group, surrounding the base of that mountain. Next to
these come those of the Ardudwy mountains, small in
size but charming in situation. And finally we have
those of the Festiniog district, numerous and rich in
traditionary lore.
Bala Lake in the valley of the upper waters of the
24
MERIONETHSHIRE
Dee, the largest sheet of natural fresh water in Wales, is
1084 acres in extent, but it has now been exceeded in
size by the artificially constructed Vyrnwy reservoir on
the other side of the Berwyns, which has an area of 1 121
acres. Its length is about three miles, with a breadth in
the widest part of nearly one mile.
The lake, like so many of the Welsh lakes, is not
Bala Lake and Llanycil Church
devoid of a legend as to its origin, though it is too long to
give here. Its Welsh name, Llyn Tegid, takes us back
to a remote past. Tegid Foel is said to have been the
husband of Ceridwen, the traditional mother of Taliesin,
the seer, and his dominion comprised the territory in
which the lake is situated, though according to the legend
it was not in his time that the lake was formed.
LAKES 25
The lakes of the Cader Idris group are Talyllyn, Cae,
Tri Graienyn, Aran, Gader, Gafr, Gwernan, Wylfa, and
Creigenen. The largest of these is the Talyllyn lake at
the southern foot of the mountain. It is sometimes
known as the Mwyngil, i.e. "the Peaceful Retreat," a
very appropriate name for this beautiful and secluded
stretch of water, which is about two miles long and half
a mile broad. Verdant meadows and sequestered home-
steads surround it, whilst the rugged grandeur of Cader
Idris towers above. The Dysynni river drains it, having
its outlet at the eastern end. Llyn-y-Cae is in a chasm of
the mountain above Talyllyn and is best seen from the
summit of the Gader. Llyn-y-Tri Graienyn, the "Lake
of the Three Pebbles," is situated at the side of the road
from Corris to Dolgelly. The pebbles three huge boul-
ders weighing many tons according to the legend, were
shaken out of the shoe of the giant Idris. On the north-
east side is Llyn Aran, drained by the stream of the
same name, which flows through the town of Dolgelly to
join the Wnion. Llyn-y-Gader lies at the foot of the
Fox's Path, which leads to the summit of Cader Idris. It
is sheltered by high precipitous cliffs. Within a distance
of half a mile is Llyn Gafr, called by this name because
of the large herds of goats which grazed its banks in
former times. On the side of the road from Dolgelly to
Cader Idris is Llyn Gwernan, a beautifully clear lake,
but in summer filled with sedge and vegetable growth.
Llyn Creigenen lies on the elevated ridge above Arthog.
Its waters help to form the beautiful falls of that place.
In the Ganllwyd neighbourhood on the northern side
H
LAKES 27
of the Mawddach estuary is Llyn Cynwch. This is near
the old mansion of Nannau, and is the reservoir supplying
Dolgelly with water.
We now turn to the lakes of the Ardudwy country,
among which is Llyn Cwmbychan, at the foot of the
ridge known as Graig Ddrwg. It is a small though
charming sheet of water within a walk of Harlech. To
the north are Llyn-yr-Eiddew Mawr and Eiddew Bach ;
these are drained by the Artro. Llynau Tecwyn Uchaf
and Isaf lie in the mountains between Talsarnau and
Trawsfynydd ; surrounding them is a marvellous wreck
of stones in which some archaeologists claim to find traces
of "a hitherto unknown British town." Coming south-
wards into the valley of the Ysgethin, and at the foot of
the Llawllech chain, we have three lovely lakes named
the Bodlyn, Irddyn, and Dulyn. Across the Diphwys is
Llyn Cwm Mynach, the water of which is carried down
to Bontddu by the Afon Mynach. There are many more
of these small lakes in this district, some of which are Llyn
Du, Llyn-y-Fedw, Llyn Pryfed, and Llyn Dywarchen.
In the Festiniog district there are several beautiful
sheets of water, some of which are of considerable
size. The best known are Llyn-y-Morwynion, Y Dy-
warchen, Y Manod, Bowydd, Conglog, Cwmorthin,
Llynlilyn, Llynau-y-Gamallt, Llyn Newydd, Y Garn,
Tryweryn, Arenig Fawr, and Arenig Fach. Of these
the most famous is Llyn-y-Morwynion "Maidens'
Lake," because of the legend connected with it, which
in Welsh lake-lore is as famous as that of the Sabine
women in classic story.
28 MERIONETHSHIRE
7. Geology.
The term rock in Geology is used without reference
to the hardness or compactness of the material. The
hardest rock, as well as the softest, crumbles into sand
and dust by exposure to the atmosphere, and geologists
speak of loose soil, layers of sand, pebble, or clay by the
same term as they do of slate, limestone, or granite.
Rocks are divided roughly into two classes, (i) those
laid down mostly under water, called sedimentary or aqueous^
(2) the eruptive or igneous, i.e. those due to fire and volcanic
action.
The first kind may be compared to sheets of paper lying
one over the other. These sheets are called beds, and are
usually formed of sand (often containing pebbles), mud
or clay, and limestone, or mixtures of these materials.
They are laid down as flat or nearly flat sheets, but may
afterwards be tilted as the result of movement of the
earth's crust, just as we may tilt sheets of paper, folding
them into arches and troughs, by pressing them at either
end. Again, we may find the tops of the folds so pro-
duced worn away as the result of the action of rivers,
glaciers, and sea-waves upon them, just as we might cut
off the tops of the folds of the paper with a pair of shears.
The eruptive or igneous rocks have been melted under
the action of heat and become solid on cooling. When
in the molten state they have been poured out at the
surface as the lava of volcanoes, or have been forced into
other rocks and cooled in the cracks and other places of
GEOLOGY 29
weakness. Much material is also thrown out of volcanoes
as volcanic ash and dust, and is piled up on the sides of
the volcano. Such ashy material may be arranged in
beds, so that it partakes to some extent of the character
of the first of the two great rock groups.
The relations of such beds are of great importance to
geologists, for by them we can classify the rocks according
to age. If we take two sheets of paper, and lay one on
the top of the other on a table, the upper one has been
laid down after the other. Similarly with two beds, the
upper is also the newer, and the newer will remain on
the top after earth-movements, save in very exceptional
cases which need not be regarded here. For general
purposes we may look upon any bed or set of beds resting
on any other in our own country as being the newer bed
or set.
The movements which affect beds may occur at
different times. A set of beds may be laid down flat,
then thrown into folds by movement, the tops of the
beds worn off, and another series of beds laid down upon
the worn surface of the older beds, the edges of which
will abut against the oldest of the new set of flatly de-
posited beds, which latter may in turn undergo disturbance
and renewal of their upper portions.
Again, after the formation of the beds many changes
may occur in them. They may become hardened, pebble
beds being changed into conglomerates, sand into sand-
stones, mud and clay into mudstones and shales, soft
deposits of lime into limestone, and loose volcanic ashes
into exceedingly hard rocks. They may also become
30 MERIONETHSHIRE
cracked, and the cracks are often very regular, running
in two directions at right angles one to the other. Such
cracks are known as joints, and the joints are very im-
portant in affecting the physical geography of a district.
Then, as the result of great pressure applied sideways, the
rocks may be so changed that they can be split into thin
slabs, which usually, though not necessarily, split along
planes standing at high angles to the horizontal. Rocks
affected in this way are known as slates.
If we could flatten out all the beds of England and
Wales, and arrange them one over the other and bore a
shaft through them, we should see them on the sides of
the shaft, the newest appearing at the top and the oldest
at the bottom, as in the annexed table. Such a shaft
would have a depth of between 10,000 and 20,000 feet.
The strata beds are divided into three great groups called
Primary or Palaeozoic, Secondary or Mesozoic, and Ter-
tiary or Cainozoic, and the lowest of the Primary rocks
are the oldest rocks of Britain, and form as it were the
foundation stones on which the other rocks rest. These
are termed the Pre-Cambrian rocks. The three great
groups are divided into minor divisions known as Systems.
The names of these Systems are arranged in order in the
table, and the general characters of each System are also
stated.
With these introductory remarks we may now pro-
ceed to a brief account of the geology of the county.
Merionethshire in its geological formation belongs to
the oldest series of rocks classified in our table. In it
there are examples of the Pre-Cambrian, or as they are
NAMES o
SYSTEMS
SUBDIVISIONS
CHARACTERS OF ROCKS
Recent
Pleistocene
[Metal Age Deposits
Neolithic
Palaeolithic
Superficial Deposits
Glacial
>
iCromer Series
&
<
Weybourne Crag
Chillesford and Norwich Crags
Red and Walton Crags
Sands chiefly
%'
Coralline Crag
W
Miocene
Absent from Britain
H
[Fluviomarine Beds of Hampshire
Bagshot Beds
London Clay
Oldhaven Beds, Woolwich and Reading
Clays and Sands chiefly
^
Thanet Sands [Groups ,
X
1 Chalk
Cretaceous
Upper Greensand and Gault
Lower Greensand
Weald Clay
Chalk at top
Sandstones, Mud and
Clays below
Hastings Sands t
Purbeck Beds v
>
Portland Beds
02
<3
Kimmeridge Clay
Corallian Beds
Q
Z, *
Jurassic
Oxford Clay and Kellaways Rock
Cornbrash
Shales, Sandstones and
Oolitic Limestones
n
Forest Marble
Great Oolite with Stonesfield Slate
w
Inferior Oolite
en
Lias Upper, Middle, and Lower t
Rhaetic i
Keuper Marls
Triassic
Keuper Sandstone
Upper Bunter Sandstone
Red Sandstones and
" Marls, Gypsum and Salt
Bunter Pebble Beds
x
Lower Bunter Sandstone
^ Permian
[Magnesian Limestone and Sandstone i
Marl Slate
Lower Permian Sandstone
Red Sandstones and
Magnesian Limestone
Coal Measures 1
Sandstones, Shales and
Carboniferous
Millstone Grit
Mountain Limestone
Coals at top
Sandstones in middle
Basal Carboniferous Rocks ;
Limestone and Shales below
>
tf
Devonian
^PP er \ Devonian and Old Red Sand- ]
Ser J stone )
Red Sandstones,
Shales, Slates and Lime-
stones
< _
Silurian
:Ludlow Beds )
Wenlock Beds
Llandovery Beds J
> Sandstones, Shales and
Thin Limestones
2
CL
Caradoc Beds )
Shales, Slates,
Ordovician
Llandeilo Beds
Sandstones and
Arenig Beds
Thin Limestones
'Tremadoc Slates ]
Lingula Flags |
Menevian Beds
> Slates and
Sandstones
Harlech Grits and Llanberis Slates /
Sandstones,
*
Pre- Cambrian
No definite classification yet made
Slates and
Volcanic Rocks
32 MERIONETHSHIRE
sometimes called, the Archaean, which in the mam con-
sist of igneous or eruptive rocks. These are found
stretching intermittently from Cader Idris to the two
Arans, then, with a break in the Mawddach and Wnion
valleys, we find them in the mountains of Ardudwy, from
which they continue northwards to Festiniog. They
take in by the way the Rhobell Fawr and the Arenigs.
The Rhobell Fawr is the most striking example of
igneous rock to be seen. It has been formed by volcanic
action upon some great primeval sea bottom long long
ages ago, measured by tens of thousands of years. In its
outline it shows the most extensive mass of ancient lava
in the Principality, and this is surrounded for miles by
hundreds of smaller examples which were once united,
but have been cut off by denudation and other agencies.
Cader Idris belongs to a similar series with this difference,
that the summit is formed by a pinnacle of what geologists
call trap rock, beneath and around which the vertical cliffs
and precipices of ash range themselves.
It must not, however, be supposed that these mountains
themselves are in any sense extinct volcanoes. The deep
cwms overhung by the precipices with their streams of
loose stone, are no spent craters. They are the result
of great volcanic action which took place at the bottom
of the sea when the whole country was under some great
ocean in remote ages. Geologists assume that when this
enormous mass of complicated rock made its first appear-
ance above the water in which it had been formed, it
must have presented to the eye a fairly uniform and level
tableland. But after its emergence from its aqueous
Cader Idris : the Precipice
M. M.
34 MERIONETHSHIRE
birthplace, the streams of water, rain, frost and other
atmospheric agents acted upon it in course of time, and
began to carve the country into the shape and form it
now presents.
The softer rocks would of course become worn down
much quicker than the harder, and the latter would in
consequence ultimately become the superior heights of
the county. In places where the softer sedimentary
stratified beds enter into the composition of the surface,
the hills are on the whole smooth and more uniform in
shape. But where the country shows a great predominance
of igneous rocks, the hills are loftier, more serrated, and
bolder in their outline.
From near Barmouth through the Vale of Ardudwy
to the basin of the lower Dwyryd, and also in the con-
trary direction from the Mawddach estuary to that of
the Dysynni, we find the rocks belong to the Cambrian
System. The southern part of the county from the
Dovey to near the Dysynni, and again along the western
slopes of the Berwyns as far as Bala, and also the north
of the county, belongs to the Ordovician System. The
eastern part of the county is mainly composed of rocks
belonging to the Silurian System.
The Cambrian formation of rocks as seen in Dyffryn
Ardudwy consists of the following strata or beds, (i) Har-
lech Grits, (2) Menevian beds, (3) Lingula Flags, and
(4) Tremadoc Slates.
The Harlech Dome, as it is called by geologists, is
a large, irregularly-oval tract lying between Barmouth
and Harlech, or it may be more correctly said between
GEOLOGY 35
Dolgelly and Harlech and ranging northward to Maen-
twrog. It is occupied by unfossiliferous grits, and purple
and green slates. It holds a very important place in the
physical features of North Wales, being the site of the
great Merionethshire anticlinal, in which the rocks dip
in opposite directions like the roof of a house. On the
flanks of these sloping rocks the fossiliferous flags and
grits of the Lower Cambrian series are observed to rest.
The Lingula Flags are divided into three groups, called
respectively the Maentwrog, the Festiniog, and the Dol-
gelly groups. The first is distinguished by its jointed
dark-blue ferruginous slates ; the second by hard mica-
ceous flags ; and the third, or the Dolgelly group, by
the soft black slate which shows a black streak when
scratched.
The range between the rivers Eden and the Mawddach
in the neighbourhood of Dolmelynllyn has always been
famous for its fossils.
Next above the Cambrian we have the Ordovician
formation, which consists of the following strata the
Arenig beds, the Llandilo beds, and the Bala or Caradoc
beds. This last series occupies the largest area in North
Wales. It spreads by numerous undulations around the
towns of Bala and Corwen ; it forms the main construc-
tion of the Arenigs, the Arans, the Gader group, and the
Berwyns; and in it we have the Festiniog, Corris, Aber-
gynolwyn, and Aberllefenni slate-quarries.
The Silurian formation is seen to stretch from near
Bala to the eastern bounds of the county. The special
feature and interest of this formation to the native of
1 2
36 MERIONETHSHIRE
Merionethshire is that the term " Bala beds" is given to
certain rocks found all over Wales, because they are best
developed in the strata from Dinas Mawddwy by Bala
to Bettws-y-Coed. The Berwyn mountains as far as the
borders of Shropshire contain a special limestone known
as "Bala Limestone." It is, however, not of good quality,
and is not employed for building purposes, though very
useful for road-making.
It is a well-known and interesting fact that the largest
u fault " in the British Isles cuts through the middle of
Bala Lake from south-west to north-east. This large
fault, which rent asunder the rocks, occurred far back in
geological time, disturbing the rocks along its course,
and consequently facilitated the action of denuding agents
on the beds of softer material.
The origin of Bala Lake is considered by geologists
to be the work of glacial action. Professor Ramsay says
that the greater part of the Silurian region on either side
of the lake and of the Dee stood high above the level of
the sea from remote geological times, and probably formed
a wide tableland extending far to the south, and also to
the east and north-east. On its edges rose the more
mountainous expanse formed by volcanic rocks, splendid
relics of which still remain in the peaks of Cader Idris,
the Arans, and the Arenigs.
When the Dee began to flow in its earliest channel,
it is clear that its present source, Bala Lake, had no
existence. The river at that time must have flowed over
a surface of land not less high than that on either side of
the present valley near Corwen and Llangollen. The
GEOLOGY 37
surface of Bala Lake is only 690 feet above the sea-level,
while the neighbouring watershed between the lake and
Dolgelly is only 200 feet higher. As the river could not
flow uphill, it is clear that in that early stage of its history
the valley of the Dee about Bala must have been at least
1300 to 1400 feet higher than it is now, and consisted of
a mass of Silurian rocks, a great part of which has been
since removed by denudation.
8. Natural History.
It is a recognised fact in Natural History that the
ancestors of most of our flora and fauna arrived in the
British Isles when our country formed part of the main-
land of the continent of Europe, and when there was no
intervening sea to prevent easy communication. Our
mountains and hills abound in proofs both of a former
continental and a subsequent glacial age. Before all the
various species of European animals had arrived here
communication with the continent became cut off. The
land of the north-western districts of Europe became
isolated by the submergence of low-lying plains, and the
North Sea, the English Channel, and the Irish Sea were
formed, causing the influx of animal life to be stopped.
This is the reason, we are told, why there are more than
twice as many kinds of land animals in Germany as there
are in England and Wales, and nearly twice as many in
England as there are in Ireland.
Some of the animals which came from the continent
into Britain in the distant past have ages ago died out,
38 MERIONETHSHIRE
either because the climate changed and so cut off their
food supply, or because they were destroyed by the hunters
of the Stone Age or later times. From the finds made in
the Caegwyn caves near Tremeirchion, we learn that the
mammoth and woolly-haired rhinoceros lived here, and
from the bones found in other parts it is evident that
the cave lion, cave bear, bison, reindeer, hyaena, and
Irish elk were common animals. The old Welsh Triads
tell us that the first settlers of Britain found it full of
Eirth a Bleiddiau, Efeinc ac ychaln bannog, " bears and
wolves, beavers (or crocodiles the word has been variously
translated) and horned oxen." This may perhaps appear
an exaggeration, but the truth revealed by the cave finds
is beyond controversy.
Although there are many more species of beasts and
birds on the continent of Europe than we have in Britain,
yet both birds and beasts are numerically much more
common here. One reason for this is that we do not
shoot or trap for food small birds of every description,
as is the custom in many European countries. Game-
preserving also, although it has lessened or extirpated the
larger birds of prey, such as kites and buzzards, and keeps
down other species such as jays, magpies, and carrion
crows, provides protection for great numbers of the
smaller birds, which are safe from harm during the
breeding season.
When the glacial condition of our land passed away,
wherever plants could grow we may be sure they were
only those which could endure the cold. But when
warmer climatal changes gradually ensued, such as to
NATURAL HISTORY 39
bring about the present state of things, the Arctic flora
left the lower grounds but retained their hold on the
cold flanks and summits of the higher mountains.
The mountains of Merioneth in general are over
2OOO feet in height and consequently afford suitable
habitats for a rich Alpine flora. The vertical precipices
of volcanic ash on Cader Idris, and the greenstone on
Rhobell Fawr, Rhinog Fawr, and Moelwyns are par-
ticularly rich in interesting flora, among which may
be found various Saxifrages, rose root (Sedum R.hodiola\
mountain sorrel (Oxyrta reniformis\ hairy rock-cress
(Arabls hirsute), hairy genista (G. pilosa), Welsh poppy
(Meconopsis cambricd], northern galium (G. boreale], bird
cherry (Prunus Padus\ bald-money (Meum athamanticum)
and melancholy thistle (Carduus heteropkyllus), whilst
the berry-bearing plants and heaths are very plentiful,
comprising the crowberry, cowberry, cranberry, and
cloudberry (Rubus Chamcemorus], the last being especially
abundant on the Berwyns at Cader Fronwen and called
by the English "knotberry," but by the Welsh "mwyar
y Berwyn."
The numerous deep, shady, and secluded glens of the
county are very rich in scarce plants, and not less so in
mosses and other cryptogams. The littoral also, with its
salt marshes and sand dunes, produces a number of inter-
esting species. In the salt marshes may be found the
marsh samphire or glass-wort (Salicornia\ the tassel-grass
(Ruppia\ sea-blite (Suteda maritime*}, sea-milkwort (Glaux
maritimd}, marsh and sea arrow-grass (Triglochin), sea
convolvulus (C. Soldanella), now becoming difficult to find
40 MERIONETHSHIRE
where once it was plentiful, and the very pretty purple
sea lavender (Statice Limonium), also now only to be found
sparingly. Among the sand-dunes occur some rare
rushes, such as Juncus maritimus and Juncus acutus ; the
sea spurge (Euphorbia Paralias) is plentiful, and on the
level grassy spots may be seen the exquisite ladies' tresses
(Spiranthes autumnalis], maiden pink (Diantbus deltoides\
common Teesdalia, fleabane, whorled Solomon's seal
(Polygonatum verticillatum\ annual knawel (Scleranthus),
and the evening primrose (Oenothera biennis}.
In the bogs and wet places we have the marsh
St John's-wort (Hypericum elodes\ the sweet-scented white
orchis and frog orchis (Habenaria albida and H. viridis\
the ivy-leaved campanula, marsh Andromeda, wild balsam
(Impatiens Noli-me-t anger e\ floating water-plantain (Alisma
Plantago), both long and round-leaved sundews, hemp agri-
mony (Eupatoria Cannabina), yellow flag iris, gipsy-wort
(Lycopus Europceus\ bog myrtle, celery-leaved crowfoot (Ra-
nunculus Sceleratus)) and the great spearwort (R. Lingua], an
uncommon plant. The marshy lands in July are white
with the cotton-grass, two kinds especially Eriophorum
vaginatum and latifolium. The willow-leaved spiraea forms
hedges in wet places and the common spiraea known as
meadow-sweet grows abundantly in the damp meadows.
The railway embankments show a number of plants that
are not natives, among which are red campions and
scarlet poppies, whilst the American cress (Barbarea
praecox), probably a garden escape, is found wild on
the roadsides in some places together with the stately
tree-mallow (Lavatera arborea).
NATURAL HISTORY 41
Ferns are characteristic of Merionethshire. Sheltered
crevices of the rocks, shady dells, extensive moors, and
wild uplands have all their typical species and in many
instances of a rare kind. The parsley fern (Cryptogramme
crhpa\ a lover of rocky habitats, is to be found in many
places. The beech fern (Poly podium Phegopteris] is to be
found in secluded hollows, and the oak fern (P. Dryopteris)
is plentiful in several parts. Magnificent specimens of
the broad fern grow in boggy places. In old walls
may be seen the hay-scented fern (Lastraea Foenisecii)
growing in dense clusters, and in inaccessible faces of
rocks Asplenium lanceolatum flourishes. Others observable
are the little filmy ferns Hymenopkyllum^ Tunbridgense and
Wihoni, which are the tiniest and most delicate-looking of
all British ferns, the green spleenwort {Asplenium viride\
and the exceedingly rare forked-spleenwort (A. septentrio-
nale] so much sought after by old-time herbalists. The
Osmunda, which used to crown the banks of many a little
stream, has become exceedingly rare through the rapacity
of fern-sellers and tourists. There are also the sea fern,
adder's tongue, holly fern (Aspidium Lonchitis\ and prickly
shield fern {A. aculeatum).
Turning to the wild animal life of the county we
know from the names of some of its river-fords that the
beaver in ancient times had its favourite haunts in some
of our valleys, and there still survive the place names of
the retreats of the bear and the wolf. The otter is
plentiful, and so are the fox, badger, stoat, weasel,
squirrel, hedgehog, rabbit, and hare. The polecat is
sometimes seen, but the marten is now extinct, the last
42 MERIONETHSHIRE
two being killed twenty years ago, the one at Dolgelly
and the other at Corwen.
Merionethshire being a county of high mountains,
steep crags, extensive moors, and deep secluded valleys,
its list of birds is both varied and interesting. The salient
feature, however, is that not many species found here can
be accounted as native in the fullest sense, though many
which have regularly made the county their home during
the breeding season may be classed as residents. The
summer and winter migrants are very numerous.
The raven is common ; four or five of them may
frequently be seen hunting together over the grouse moors
in search of sickly and wounded birds. The merlin has
its favourite haunts on the Berwyns, and the peregrine
falcon breeds on the rugged and sheer cliffs of the Arans.
Sparrow-hawks and kestrels are common. The tawny
and barn owls are to be found commonly, but the long-
eared owl has become scarce. The wood-pigeon is
abundant and does much mischief to root-crops and
standing corn. The sheldrake is a resident of the lower
Mawddach, and here too, when the tide is out, may be
seen cormorants, plovers, and sandpipers of various kinds,
black-headed, kitti wake, and common gulls, oyster-catchers,
herons, and many other estuary-loving birds. The curlew
and golden plover leave the seaside in March to breed on
the moors, where the red grouse makes its home in great
numbers. The finest grouse moors in Wales surround
Bala Lake. The black grouse has become scarce, but it
is occasionally seen on the Berwyns.
The more familiar woodland and hedge birds call for
NATURAL HISTORY 43
no special remark. The nuthatch, once very rare, is
becoming more common. The stonechat is seldom seen
but the whmchat is a common summer visitant. The
green and greater-spotted woodpeckers and the wryneck
are to be heard in all the woods, and the corncrake with
its harsh notes greets one in the meadows and long grass.
The swampy districts during the nesting season are visited
by the reed and sedge warblers, grasshopper warbler, reed
bunting, Ray's wagtail, water rail, and other birds of like
habitat.
Among the winter visitants is the bittern, which
frequents the salt marshes of the coast ; and the wild
swan or hooper, which visits Bala Lake and some of the
moorland pools of Llandderfel. The grey phalarope is
frequently seen in the vale of Edeyrnion, and sometimes
on the Upper Dee above Bala Lake. Flocks of bramblings
regularly visit the county in winter ; they come about
the end of October and leave for their northern home in
February and March. Sometimes, too, the twite or
mountain linnet comes here as early as September and
leaves as late as April. The green sandpiper and grey
plover are regular visitors. After a heavy fall of snow
it is not uncommon to see great flocks of skylarks passing
over the Berwyns, to feed, most probably, on the estuary
and tidal waters of the Dee. The spotted crake during
its passage north and south is occasionally seen in the
coast region. Coot and dabchick frequent Bala Lake in
large numbers.
44 MERIONETHSHIRE
9. The Coast=line.
The coast-line of Merionethshire is washed throughout
its whole extent by the waters of Cardigan Bay. It
extends from the mouth of the Glaslyn on the borders
of Carnarvonshire to the mouth of the Dovey on the
borders of Montgomeryshire and Cardiganshire. At all
times the bay has the appearance of a lonely untravelled
sea, for sailors as a rule give it a wide berth. The dis-
tance, measured in a direct line as the crow flies from the
Glaslyn to the Dovey, does not exceed 30 miles, yet the
numerous windings of the foreshore, and the deep estuaries
of the Traeth Mawr, Traeth Bach, the Mawddach, the
Dysynni, and the Dovey, give the county a length of
coast-line exceeding 75 miles.
The coast presents features of a varied character, and
is interesting throughout its entire length owing to the
great contrasts of its background of mountains, which
skirt it at various distances. Some closely hem in its
foreshore, whilst others are set back by a broad belt of
low-lying stretches of sand and undulating sand-dunes.
The traditions and folklore of ancient times have much
to say of the devastation of the sea, and the submergence
of immense tracts. The proximity of the high mountains
would naturally lead a stranger to expect that the coast
would have been of a rock-bound character, but the
contrary is the case except in some rare instances.
Starting at the estuary of the Dovey we may observe
how the mountain ridges closely hem the shore at short
THE COAST-LINE 45
intervals, yet the foreshore is one broad belt of sand and
sand-dunes from Aberdovey as far as the mouth of the
Dysynni. The town of Aberdovey is set back on the
slopes of the high ridge. Similarly the little watering-
place of Towyn, a fashionable resort, stands on the rising
ground at some considerable distance from the foreshore.
To the north of Towyn is situated what is familiarly called
Towyn: the Dysynni
Morfa Towyn, i.e. " Towyn Marsh." Formerly this
was an undrained and swampy stretch of lowland of over
300 acres, frequently overflowed by the sea. But the
owners of the Ynys-y-maengwyn estates reclaimed the
whole area, and though in close proximity to the sandy
beach it now forms a rich alluvial tract of agricultural
land.
46 MERIONETHSHIRE
After crossing the estuary of the Dysynni, which
brings down the waters of the Talyllyn lake through
a valley rich in historical lore, we pass to a shore of a
pebbly character. At Llangelynin on the elevated land
we have a long stretch of apparently flat and level ground.
This is one of the few districts in the county which is
not of a hilly nature. It is called Gwastad Meirionydd
"The Plain of Merioneth." Upon nearing Llwyn-
gwril, a charming little village with an ancient camp
close by, we find the cliffs and boulders approximating the
shore. As the Mawddach estuary is approached we pass
a marshy level with sedges, rushes, and rank grass, close
to the shore, and only separated from it by the constructed
ridge over which the Cambrian railway runs. This is
known as Morfa Arthog. Surrounding the Morfa the
mountains come to an abrupt termination, their high
cliffs and receding spurs directing the attention to Cader
Idris in the background. The landscape here is peculiarly
attractive, mountain and sea coming into such close prox-
imity. The Fairbourne foreshore is a charming stretch
of sand and pebble, and the bold and rugged Arthog cliffs
are beautifully clothed with foliage and trees.
The estuary of the Mawddach is crossed by a remark-
ably fine trestle bridge of timber, half a mile in length,
over which the railway passes. This also forms a gang-
way for pedestrians, and is in reality the promenade pier
of Barmouth, stretching for half a mile over the "aber."
The view inland is one of the finest in Wales, with Cader
Idris to the right, Diphwys to the left, the estuary below,
and the Arans beyond. At the Barmouth end, where the
DQ
48 MERIONETHSHIRE
course of the river lies, the bridge is of iron, and is lifted by
machinery when a vessel passes under, but the rest of the
structure is of timber and must have denuded a pretty
extensive woodland to make, for more of it is buried than
exposed. Commanding the entrance to the estuary we
have the small island known as Ynys Brawd " The
Island of the Brother" traditionally the abode of a hermit
in ancient days. This natural breakwater, strengthened
by artificial work, protects the harbour, in which small
boats find a shelter.
The foreshore at Barmouth affords a good stretch of
sandy beach and the town rises in terrace fashion up the
steep slope of the ridge commanding the northern bank
of the estuary. Leaving Barmouth and proceeding
northwards by Llanaber, Egryn Abbey, and Llanddwywe
into the Dyffryn district, we pass a wet and marshy coast
which gives place to accumulations of blown sand rising
into immense dunes, upon which rank grass finds luxuriant
growth. This part of the coast is known as Morfa DyfFryn.
Opposite Llanbedr, at the mouth of the River Artro,
lies the island of Mochras, famed for its shells, from which
the Sarn Badrig, " St Patrick's Causeway " a reef of
submerged rock stretches into the sea for a long distance.
We pass northwards by Harlech, and observe the magni-
ficent Edwardian castle towering defiantly on the summit
of the steep rock a good half mile from the seashore.
In former times, not far remote, the sea undoubtedly
washed the base of the castle-rock. Now it is separated
from it by a wide belt of level fields, banked at the fore-
shore by an immense barrier of sand-hills which remind
THE COAST-LINE
49
us of the coasts of Holland. In these sand-hills, rank
grass, rushes, and small bushy shrubs grow in abundance,
so that the otherwise shifting sands are kept in bounds.
Proceeding round the bend of Morfa Harlech with its
famous golf links and racecourse, and passing the pro-
montory known as Harlech Point, we enter the treacherous
inlet of the Traeth Bach, the outlet of the Dwyryd river.
Ynys Giftan
Here the ever-shifting sand makes navigation to Penrhyn-
deudraeth most dangerous, and only very small craft
attempt the channel. Much of the land on the southern
side of Traeth Bach, as at Harlech, has been reclaimed
from the ravages of the sea.
Skirting the northern coast of the Traeth Bach we
come to the demesne lands of Castell Deudraeth, a
M. M. 4
50 MERIONETHSHIRE
comparatively modern mansion, and by Minffordd pass the
little island called Ynys Giftan. Having rounded Penrhyn
point we are in the Traeth Mawr, into which the Glaslyn
flows. The sea does not now overflow the wide expanse
of ten thousand acres which lies in the valley of the
Glaslyn as it did a hundred years ago. This was all
reclaimed in the early part of the last century, at a cost
of over a hundred thousand pounds, by Mr Madocks, who
barred out the sea by a huge dyke. In the making of
the dyke he had as his friend and companion the poet
Shelley, who came to live in the neighbourhood.
The popular traditions of the Merioneth coast tell us
of an extensive tract of rich country having been sub-
merged one stormy night by the sea. This territory is
known in old Welsh records as Cantrev-y-Gwaelod
"the Lowland Hundred." There are various versions
of the calamitous flood, the one found in a poem of the
" Black Book of Carmarthen " being perhaps the earliest
extant. The "Welsh Triads" of the Myfyrian Archaeo-
logy also refer to it as one of the three chief disasters
of Britain. The version which has made it popular to
English readers is that of Thomas Love Peacock, in his
story, The Misfortunes of Elphln.
Gwyddno was King of Ceredigion (Cardigan), and
his most fruitful and valuable possession is said to have
been the Lowland Hundred, which was protected by an
immense sea wall. Sarn Badrig, before referred to, was
part of it ; so was Sarn-y-Bwch " the causeway of the
hart" extending from the Dysynni in the direction of
the Sarn Badrig. Remains of these are still to be seen
THE COAST-LINE 51
at low water. The Hundred is said to have contained
many towns, among which was Forth Gwyddno, one of
the privileged ports of the Isle of Britain. The tradition
is further perpetuated in the well-known old Welsh air
The Bells of Aberdovey."
10. Climate.
By the climate of a district is meant the average
weather experienced by that country or district. It
comprises its rainfall, temperature, hours of sunshine,
and humidity of the air. These depend upon various
conditions, among which the most important is geo-
graphical position ; that is, in the first place, the latitude,
or the distance of the country from the equator, and in
the second place, its distance from the sea and its height
above sea-level. We' have also to consider the nature or
character of its soil and vegetation.
Speaking generally, the nearer a country is to the
equator the hotter will be its climate, and the nearer it
is to the sea coast the more equable will it be. The
highest temperature in the shade ever yet recorded was
in the Sahara at a spot within the tropics, where the
thermometer registered 127 Fahr.; and the lowest or
the greatest cold ever experienced was at a place in
Siberia, where the thermometer is said to have registered
90 Fahr. below zero.
The climate of our country as a whole is very much
affected by the Gulf Stream and the winds that aid it and
42
52 MERIONETHSHIRE
its " drift." The prevailing winds of our land blow from
the west and south-west, and come laden with moisture.
These winds meet with elevated land-tracts directly they
reach the western shores, such as the moorlands of Corn-
wall and Devon, the Welsh mountains, including those
which extend from Cader Idris to the spurs of the Snowdon
group in this county, and the fells of Cumberland and
Westmorland. As soon as the winds touch these barriers
they part with their moisture and it descends in abundant
rain. This is seen by referring to the accompanying map
of the annual rainfall in England and Wales. It will
be noticed that the heaviest rainfall occurs in the west,
and that it decreases with remarkable regularity towards
the east, until the least rainfall occurs on the eastern
shores of England.
The rainfall along the line of our Merionethshire
mountains is about the largest in the whole of England
and Wales. Upon the higher mountain groups of the
Arenigs and the contiguous Snowdon group the average
rainfall is as high as 100 inches per annum. This is an
enormous amount, but it has been exceeded on many
occasions in individual years. Thus at Llyn-Llydaw,
in the Snowdon district in 1908, no less than 237 inches
were registered.
The heaviest rainfall in England and Wales in the
year 1908 was at Glaslyn in this district, where as much
as 176*6 inches were measured, while in the quarry
district of Festiniog the rainfall was 81 inches. To take
other parts of the county, the average at Brithdir, near
Dolgelly, was 66 inches ; at Llandderfel to the east of
ENGLAND & WALES
ANNUAL RAINFALL
Statute Miles
(The figures give the approximate annual rainfall in inches.}
54 MERIONETHSHIRE
Bala Lake it was 47 inches ; whilst at Rug Gardens near
Corwen, still further east, it was only 35 inches. In the
eastern and south-eastern counties of England the rainfall
did not exceed an average of more than 25 inches, whilst
at Shoeburyness in Essex the lowest rainfall in the whole
country was registered, being only 14*57 inches. It will
thus be seen that the high ridges of Merionethshire and of
the west generally may very appropriately be likened to
a great umbrella, sheltering in a large measure the parts
of the country to the east from the heavy and continuous
rains. The months with the least rain in Merionethshire
as a rule are June and July, with an average rainfall of
2*83 inches. The wettest months are November and
December, with an average of 4*25 inches.
There is an important society in London called the
Royal Meteorological Society which collects from all
parts of the country particulars of the rainfall, the tem-
perature of the air, the hours of sunshine, and the direction
of the winds. The newspapers day by day give a summary
of these particulars, so that we are able to see at a glance
by means of a chart or map exactly what kind of weather
has been experienced during the past 24 hours in all parts
of the British Isles. At the end of the year these results
are totalled and averaged, and from these we are in a
position to compare and contrast the character of the
climate at various places.
In 1908 the mean temperature of England was 48-9
Fahr., and of Wales 49-2 Fahr., whilst that of Merioneth-
shire was 47-2 Fahr. Thus it will be seen that Merion-
ethshire was below the average for both England and
CLIMATE 55
Wales. The month in that year with the highest mean
temperature was July with 59*1 Fahr., and the lowest
was January with 38-4 Fahr.
The annual total of hours of bright sunshine in
Merionethshire obviously varies from year to year. The
sun is above the horizon in England and Wales for more
than 4450 hours in the year, but separate districts never
have the same number of hours of sunshine. No district
in the whole of the country is favoured with sunshine
for half the number of hours that the sun is above
the horizon. The coast regions of Merionethshire as a
rule enjoy more bright sunshine than do districts inland.
Bright sunshine was recorded at Greenwich Observatory
in 1908 for 1406 hours, and in various places in the south
of England there was bright sunshine for nearly 2000
hours. But the average total number of hours of bright
sunshine in England was 1498, and in Wales 1497, whilst
in Merionethshire it was only 1485 hours. The sunniest
months in Wales during the year are generally May
and June, with an average for the last ten years of 2O2
hours of bright sunshine, and the month with the least
sunshine generally is December, which has an average
for the last ten years of 35 hours.
Sometimes it is found that places in the same county,
and situated not far distant from one another, have a
marked difference in climate. Configuration of the land
and general aspect have much to do in producing this
contrast. A hill-slope facing south receives the sun's
rays more directly than does a slope facing north. Con-
sequently we find the southern aspect is more sunny and
56 MERIONETHSHIRE
genial than the northern aspect. It may sometimes be
noticed after a heavy fall of snow in winter-time that the
snow remains longer on the northern slope of the Berwyns
than it does on the southern slope. Similarly in the
narrow glen of the Wnion, the slopes of the left bank,
which face the north, retain the snow in winter for a
longer period than do the slopes of the right bank, which
face the south.
The climate of Barmouth, owing to its sheltered
position, is well known to be more equable and warm
than that of places not far distant which are built on a
contrary slope. Barmouth is completely protected from
the cold north breezes and dry easterly winds by the
high ridge upon the slope of which it has been built. It
makes an agreeable winter resort, as do other places on
this coast like Towyn and Aberdovey. One well-known
author has said of Barmouth that it combines the climate
of the Mediterranean with the scenery of Switzerland,
which is true in a measure. The proof of this is borne
out by the number of tender shrubs which flourish out of
doors throughout the long winter. Among these we have
hydrangeas, fuchsias, magnolias, and myrtles, which are
frequently seen in the roadside cottage gardens of the
peasantry outside the towns.
Humid as the climate is in general, yet the air is very
healthful and invigorating. Owing to the low mean
temperature snow remains on the tops of the highest
mountains, especially on the Berwyns and in the
sheltered crevices of the rocks, for many months at a
stretch, Yet the duration of life of the inhabitants
CLIMATE 57
of Merionethshire compares favourably with that of the
other rural counties of Wales. A very large percentage
are recorded to have exceeded the ordinary span of human
life, and there are a few who even reach or approximate
a century of years.
ii. People Race, Dialect, and Popula-
tion.
We have no written record of the history of our land
before the time of the Roman invasion in B.C. 55, but
we know that Man inhabited it for ages before this date.
The art of writing being then unknown, the people of
those days could leave us no account of their lives and
occupations, and hence we term these times the Prehistoric
period. But other things besides books can tell a story,
and there has survived from their time a vast quantity of
objects (which are daily being revealed by the plough of
the farmer or the spade of the antiquary), such as the
weapons and domestic implements they used, the huts
and tombs and monuments they built, and the bones of
the animals they lived on, which enable us to get a fairly
accurate idea of the life of those days.
So infinitely remote are the times in which the earliest
forerunners of our race flourished, that scientists have not
ventured to date either their advent or how long each
division in which they have arranged them lasted. It must
therefore be understood that these divisions or Ages of
which we are now going to speak have been adopted for
convenience sake rather than with any aim at accuracy.
58 MERIONETHSHIRE
The periods have been named from the material of
which the weapons and implements were at that time
fashioned the Palaeolithic or Old Stone Age ; the
Neolithic or Later Stone Age ; the Bronze Age ; and
the Iron Age. But just as we find stone axes in use at
the present day among savage tribes in remote islands, so
it must be remembered the weapons of one material were
often in use in the next Age, and possibly even in a later
one ; that the Ages, in short, overlapped.
Let us now examine these periods more closely.
First, the Palaeolithic or Old Stone Age. Man was now
in his most primitive condition. He probably did not till
the land or cultivate any kind of plant or keep any
domestic animals. He lived on wild plants and roots and
such wild animals as he could kill, the reindeer being then
abundant in this country. He was largely a cave-dweller
and probably used skins exclusively for clothing. He
erected no monuments to his dead and built no huts. He
could, however, shape flint implements with very great
dexterity, though he had as yet not learnt either to grind
or polish them. There is still some difference of opinion
among authorities, but most agree that, though this may
not have been the case in other countries, there was in
our own land a vast gap of time between the people of
this and the succeeding period. Palaeolithic man, who
inhabited either scantily or not at all the parts north of
England and made his chief home in the more southern
districts, disappeared altogether from the country, which
was later re-peopled by Neolithic man.
Neolithic man was in every way in a much more
PEOPLE RACE, DIALECT, POPULATION 59
advanced state of civilisation than his precursor. He
tilled the land, bred stock, wore garments, built huts,
made rude pottery, and erected remarkable monuments.
He had, nevertheless, not yet discovered the use of the
metals, and his implements and weapons were still made
of stone or bone, though the former were often beautifully
shaped and polished.
Menhirs, Llanbedr
Between the Later Stone Age and the Bronze Age
there was no gap, the one merging imperceptibly into the
other. The discovery of the method of smelting the ores
of copper and tin, and of mixing them, was doubtless a
slow affair, and the bronze weapons must have been ages
in supplanting those of stone, for lack of intercommuni-
cation at that time presented enormous difficulties to the
60 MERIONETHSHIRE
spread of knowledge. Bronze Age man, in addition to
fashioning beautiful weapons and implements, made good
pottery, and buried his dead in circular barrows.
In due course of time man learnt how to smelt the
ores of iron, and the Age of Bronze passed slowly into
the Iron Age, which brings us into the period of written
history, for the Romans found the inhabitants of Britain
using implements of iron.
We may now pause for a moment to consider who
these people were who inhabited our land in these far-off
ages. Of Palaeolithic man we can say nothing. His
successors, the people of the Later Stone Age, are believed
to have been largely of Iberian stock ; people, that is, from
south-western Europe, who brought with them their
knowledge of such primitive arts and crafts as were then
discovered. How long they remained in undisturbed
possession of our land we do not know, but they were
later conquered or driven westward by a very different
race of Celtic origin the Goidels or Gaels, a tall, light-
haired people, workers in bronze, whose descendants and
language are to be found to-day in many parts of
Scotland, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. Another Celtic
people poured into the country about the fourth century
B.C. the Brythons or Britons, who in turn dispossessed
the Gael, at all events so far as England and Wales are
concerned. The Brythons were the first users of iron in
our country.
The Romans, who first reached our shores in B.C. 55,
held the land till about A.D. 410; but in spite of the
length of their domination they do not seem to have left
PEOPLE RACE, DIALECT, POPULATION 61
much mark on the people. After their departure, treading
close on their heels, came the Saxons, Jutes, and Angles.
But with these and with the incursions of the Danes and
Irish we have left the uncertain region of the Prehistoric
Age for the surer ground of History.
Although there may not be definite proof of Palaeo-
lithic man inhabiting the remote mountainous districts of
Remains of Goidel Hut, near Harlech
this county, yet we have sufficient evidence that^Neolithic
man resided in many of the constituent districts which
have gone to make up the county of Merioneth, for many
highly polished and elaborately finished stone instruments,
together with flakes and splinters of flint, have been found
in and around ancient settlements, as well as in association
with interments.
62 MERIONETHSHIRE
Their dead they buried in a crouching attitude in a
cave or in a constructed stone chamber encased by an
earthen mound or cairn. Probably the remains of
cromlechs and stone circles, as seen in the Vale of
Ardudwy, are the work of these people.
The survival of this Iberian race is to be seen in the
Welsh language of our own time, in the sequence of the
words in a sentence. In Welsh the place of the verb is
before its subject, as Darllennodd Owen y Llyfr " Owen
read the book." Another survival is the relative position
of the adjective and noun, the former following the noun
it qualifies or limits, as Ty mawr " a large house " ;
Bachgen da "a good boy." Philologists tell us that
all languages of the Aryan stock except Welsh and its
cognate languages have their nouns, verbs, and adjectives
in a different order, as we have them in the English
language of to-day.
In the fourth century before Christ, as already stated,
the second wave of the Celts, called the Brythons, made
their appearance in our country and settled here. They
gradually won from the Goidels the plain districts of the
land, and pushed themselves into Wales by way of Shrop-
shire and the southern parts of Cheshire and Denbighshire,
so that by the time of the Roman conquest the tribe
known as the Ordovices came into possession of the
greater part of our present Merionethshire as far as the
Dovey. It is rather difficult to define with precision the
progress made in civilisation by these early peoples before
the coming of the Romans. There are not even many
survivals of Roman culture in Merionethshire. So we
PEOPLERACE, DIALECT, POPULATION 63
have to look to other counties for the best and most
definite evidences. We learn from old writers that the
Brythons lived in wattled huts daubed with mud and
clay. They cultivated the soil and sowed corn. They
possessed domestic animals such as the ox, goat, sheep,
pig, horse, dog, and even fowls. They ground their
corn in querns or small hand-mills, and made excellent
pottery.
When we come to the Roman occupation we find
military or hill stations in the county, on the lines of
the roads leading from and to England and South Wales,
which prove a complete conquest. But the mountainous
character of the land was a great hindrance to Roman
civilisation and culture as we see it in more favourably
situated districts of the Principality. Merionethshire does
not contain any remains of villas built in the rural parts
away from the military stations, such as are found in
other parts of the country. Perhaps the stationing of
two very important legions at Chester and at Caerleon
on the Usk is a strong proof of the insecure occupation
of the mountains of the west. We have, notwithstanding,
sufficient proof that the Romans held a firm hold of this
territory for the purpose of working the mines of gold
in the Mawddach valley and the copper mines of the
Ardudwy country. In these workings there is no doubt
that native labour was employed. The Brythons, contrary
to other conquered nations, seem to have preserved their
native language. In all other countries the Latin speech
superseded the native, and the latter gradually died out of
existence. This is observed particularly when we come
64 MERIONETHSHIRE
down to medieval times. In the countries of the con-
tinent where the Romans held sway for a long period of
years the languages spoken were Romance sprung from
the Latin ; but the contrary was the case in Wales,
Cornwall, and Strathclyde.
The influence of the Romans upon the Brythons is
noticeable in the loan words from Latin which have
entered into the composition of the Welsh speech.
This is seen in such words of a military character as
saeth (arrow), mur (wall), fFos (trench), castell (castle),
pont (bridge), pabell (tent). In the matter of building
houses the Brythons copied the Roman style, and we
have such loan words as ffenestr (window), pared (parti-
tion), ystafell (chamber), colofn (pillar), and trawst (beam).
Things used in the house which were new to the
Brythons have provided also our Welsh vocabulary with
cyllell (knife), dysgl (dish), cradell (gridiron), phiol (bowl),
canwyll (candle), lleitheg (couch), and cadair (chair), as
well 'as many others.
The influences of Saxon times were only trivial, and
were not felt to any appreciable extent in this remote
territory, notwithstanding the fact that the formidable
Mercian kingdom was on the border. Neither did the
Normans exert the same influence here as we find they
did in the sister county of Montgomery. The people
remained for all practical purposes a free, independent,
and unmixed race until the conquest of Wales by Edward
the First, when its present chief component parts were
incorporated into a county or shire.
The people, Welsh in speech and sentiment, speak
PEOPLE RACE, DIALECT, POPULATION 65
the Gwyneddian dialect of the Welsh language, which
differs much from the Gwentian and Demetian dialects
of South Wales. It has even many points of difference
from the Powysian dialect of the neighbouring county of
Montgomery. The native inhabitants seem to have been
less subject to influence by the English-speaking peoples
of the midlands of England than those of Montgomery-
shire, or even than those of parts of Denbighshire, for they
retain their Welsh characteristics and love of old Celtic
traditions more markedly perhaps than any county in
Wales.
The population of Merionethshire at the present time is
not as large as that of most other counties of North Wales;
in fact, with the exception of Montgomeryshire, it is the
most sparsely peopled county of the northern half of the
Principality. When the last census was taken in 1911
there were 45,565 persons in the administrative county,
or 69 to the square mile. This is a decrease of 3287
from the census of 1901, mainly to be accounted for in
the Festiniog and Corris quarry districts by the recent
depression in the slate trade. There has, however, been
a great increase in the last hundred years, for in 1801
the population only reached 29,506. This increase has
mainly taken place in the slate-quarrying and mining
neighbourhoods, and in the watering places of the coast
at Barmouth, Towyn, and Aberdovey.
The census of 1911 shows that there were more
females in the county than males. The former numbered
23,763 while the latter were 21,802. These lived in
11,183 inhabited houses, of which 4051 were houses of
M. M. 5
66 MERIONETHSHIRE
less than five rooms. The main occupation of the people
appears to be agriculture, in which 4561 males and 574
females are engaged. The men and boys engaged in
the quarries number 3895, and those engaged in the
copper and gold mines 479. In the building and
constructive trades there were 1207. The Welsh flannel
factories at present employ less than a hundred hands.
It is interesting to observe that in the census of 1901
(the last figures available on this point) the number of
native-born folk of the county enumerated in other
places in the British Isles exceeded the population to
the extent of 5650. Of the 48,852 enumerated in the
county of the ages of three years and upwards, 23,081
were monoglot Welshmen ; 19,674 were bilingual,
speaking both English and Welsh ; while 2825 spoke
English only.
12. Agriculture - Main Cultivations,
Woodlands, Stock.
The mountainous character of the county interferes
considerably with cultivation. The valley districts,
however, are generally fertile, and praiseworthy efforts
have been made to improve the quality of the soil.
The slopes of the mountains are frequently boggy and
very bare, and consequently provide poor pasturage for
sheep and cattle. Notwithstanding such natural draw-
backs, great improvements have taken place on the large
estates within recent years, by a systematic scheme of
AGRICULTURE 67
drainage, and enclosing of waste lands. The quality of
the soil has been much improved by regular courses of
various kinds of manures, with a generous application
of lime. The result of this now is that we see many
of the hilly slopes covered with herds of small black cattle,
while with occasional feeding on enclosed lands, the small
Welsh mountain sheep, as nimble as goats, do well in
the summer-time on the scanty herbage of the mountain
slopes.
The returns of the Board of Agriculture record that
there were in 1912 455,789 sheep in the county. This
enormous number is not exceeded by any county in
Wales save Breconshire and Montgomery. Merioneth-
shire may thus be considered mainly a great sheep-breeding
district. The quality of the mutton is admitted on all
hands to be excellent, hundreds of carcases being sent
weekly to the larger towns. The number of cattle fed
in the county in 1912 was 36,937.
The landowners of Merionethshire, as is well known,
have greatly encouraged the farmers in the improvement
of the land. Much money has been spent in reclaiming
the turbaries and wastes by drainage. The Ynys-y-maen-
gwyn estate near Towyn has been almost entirely won
from waste moors and wild and barren uplands. The
embanking of the Traeth Mawr in the early years of
the last century reclaimed an immense expanse on the
left bank of the Glaslyn from the overflow of the sea.
Similarly in the Dwyryd valley much land has been
gained by embankments and careful drainage. This
land, formerly a barren marsh, has been completely
52
68 MERIONETHSHIRE
transformed into farms of luxuriant fertility. The em-
banking of the Dysynni was done at an enormous
cost by the owners of the Peniarth estates. In the
north-east, too, on the Rug estates we find that much
reclamation by proper drainage of the wet, peaty, and
argillaceous soil has taken place. The county in general
to-day presents an appearance very different from that
The Glaslyn River : Snowdon in the distance
when the Rev. Walter Davies (Gwallter Mechain) made
his report upon it in the early years of the last century.
He then spoke of it as possessing an immense area of
irreclaimable wastes.
The acreage under crops is greatly on the increase,
and by the last returns there appear to have been
151,94.5 acres under cultivation, which is over one-third
of the whole superficial area of the county. It must
AGRICULTURE 69
not, however, be forgotten that this estimate does not
include mountain and heath-land.
The number of acres devoted to the raising of various
kinds of corn in 1912 was 13,650, of which 8986 acres
were under oats and 4081 acres, under barley. The
quantity of wheat-land was very small and did not exceed
519 acres. The growing of root-crops is on the increase
and more attention is being bestowed upon them ;
turnips, swedes, mangolds, cabbages, potatoes, and vetches
accounted for 3250 acres, whilst clover, sainfoin, and
grasses under rotation took up 10,526 acres. Much
land within recent years has been laid down to pasture.
This is due partly to the increased cost of labour and
partly to the diminished value of corn. The mountain
and heath-lands devoted to grazing is about 196,000 acres.
Of the cultivated land it is of very great interest to
read that the land occupied by tenant-farmers is close
upon 142,000 acres, whilst that in the immediate hands
of owners is scarcely 11,000 acres.
Woodlands are of three kinds. First come the coppices
or woods which are cut periodically, and of these there
are 468 acres ; then there are plantations, that is woods
planted within recent years, which comprise 314 acres;
and lastly we have the forests or woods of long standing
which cover 15,912 acres. There has been an increase
during the last ten years of one thousand acres of land
under wood. The alders are periodically cut down for
clog-making.
None of the farms are large, the hill-farms especially
being very small. Young stock is much raised on the
70 MERIONETHSHIRE
hill-farms, and considerable quantities of butter find their
way to the Bala, Corwen, and Dolgelly markets. The
farmers are a hardy race and are greatly attached to their
native hills and farmsteads. They live frugally on their
sixty or seventy acres, and employ but little labour outside
their own immediate families, and that little only inter-
mittently. They are not slaves to the plough and the
harrow, as they are not much given to growing corn.
Their time is largely spent in looking after their flocks
of sheep and their few cattle. Usually, however, they
have some hired labour at hay-time, keeping it perhaps
till after the harvest.
Like the landowners who boast of a lineage going
back to the time of the Welsh princes, the farmers too,
in very many instances, trace their descent from the
retainers of many of these old chieftains. In the report
of the Welsh Land Commission we have evidences ot
farmers whose families have lived in the same valley, on
the same homestead, for two, three, and even five centuries.
These are not isolated instances but they are to be found
in every part of the county. So great is the attachment to
the old homestead that, in some cases, it was reported
to be difficult to prevail upon a tenant to leave a tumble-
down tenement for a new one only a few yards away.
13. Industries and Manufactures.
Next to Agriculture, the chief industry of the county
is slate-quarrying, which has several thousands of men
and boys engaged in it. The chief centre is Festiniog,
INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 71
where over 3000 hands are employed. Corris at one
time had over 500 hands at work, but owing to the
great depression in the slate-trade of the last few years
this number has been very much reduced. At Aberllefeni
about 150 hands are employed, and at Abergynolwyn
some 200. The Pennal quarries are much smaller, with
only 80 hands, while at Arthog there are not more
than 50.
Slate-quarrying is a very old industry. It appears to
have given employment to a few men in some parts of
the county as early as the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
In the latter half of the sixteenth century a small quarry
appears to have been opened at Aberllefeni. The slates
from it were used to roof the old manor-house of the
place, a large half-timbered structure, of a character with
the large houses of the Tudor period. To what extent
a systematic working of the quarry was carried on it is
difficult to say.
The slates of that early period were not as thin and
as carefully split as they are to-day, but thick and heavy,
and more like the stone tiles seen on many a cottage and
farm-house in rural Wales to-day. They were of course
obtained where the slate-rock cropped out at the surface,
and undoubtedly lent themselves to be split easily into
thick, and perhaps rough, blocks. No attempt seems to
have been made to work down and scoop into the heart
of the mountain where the best slate is to be found, as
we now see the quarrymen do at Festiniog. On many
of the hills of this county there are traces of old workings
which serve to remind us of the primitive methods in
72 MERIONETHSHIRE
vogue in olden times. From these old workings we are
able to trace the old paths along which the men of those
days conveyed the slate either upon their shoulders or
upon small ponies to the valleys below.
Slate-quarrying in a scientific manner was first com-
menced in this county in the latter half of the eighteenth
century. The first quarry at Festiniog was the Diphwys,
Oakeley Quarries, Blaenau Festiniog
opened in 1765. In 1800 it came to be called by a
double name, by adding the name of the leaseholder ot
the quarry-rights, and became the Diphwys-Casson. The
slates at that time were carried on pony-back in panniers
to Congl-y-wal, and thence conveyed in carts to Maen-
twrog, where they were placed in barges and taken to
Traeth Bach to be shipped.
INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 73
The Bowydd Quarry was opened in 1801. It was
taken on by Mr Percival in 1846, when it was known as
Bowydd-PercivaPs. The Rhiwbach Quarry was opened
in 1812. These were the earliest. Many others have
since been opened, amongst which we have the Llechwedd,
the Moelwyn, the Graigddu, and the Cynicht, so that
the output is very great. The quarries are both open
Splitting and dressing Slates, Blaenau Festiniog
and underground, but most ot the Festiniog quarries at
the present time are of the latter description.
Lord Palmerston, the great English statesman, took
an active interest in the quarries started by the Welsh
Slate company at Rhiwbryfdir in 1816. These bear the
name of Palmerston's to this day.
The main output of the Festiniog quarries is conveyed
74 MERIONETHSHIRE
to Portmadoc by the little narrow-gauge railway for
shipment coastwise and to foreign countries. The first
tramway was laid down to Portmadoc in 1833, and for
thirty years horses were employed to draw the empty
trucks the up journey, but on the downward journey the
loaded trucks proceeded to the harbour by their own
gravitation. u So it went on/' says a writer, " horses
pulling empty waggons and slate-trucks up, and the
waggons returning the compliment by carrying the horses
down again."
Steam locomotion was brought into practical use on
this steep little narrow-gauge tramroad in the year 1873.
The curious little double-bogie engines upon their first
introduction created quite a sensation. Their ingenious
adaptability for mountain climbing attracted European
attention. Royal Commissions were sent from con-
tinental countries to make enquiries, under the guidance
of our own Foreign Office. They came, inspected, and
reported to their respective governments upon the wonderful
new means of transit.
The railway is a marvellously skilful piece of
engineering work, being only 23* inches gauge, with
an average gradient of one in ninety-two. It is 13! miles
long, and runs up-hill from Portmadoc to Diphwys,
reaching a height of 700 feet above sea-level. It is
computed that the cost of its construction amounted at
least to 6000 per mile.
The gold-mining industry employs a considerable
number of hands in the Mawddach valley. These mines
have been worked at intermittent periods from very early
INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 75
times with varying degrees of success. The Romans in
the first centuries of the Christian era knew of the presence
of gold in the quartz rock of the Ganllwyd. There has
been discovered on the farm of Dol-y-Clochydd on the
banks of the Upper Mawddach some of the flux of the
smelting-furnaces then in use. Mixed with the flux were
Rhaiadr Mawddach and Gold Mine, Dolgelly
several pieces of broken pottery of Roman make. A little
further up the stream in a small cairn there was found a
few years ago a complete and perfect earthenware vessel
of Roman make, bearing unmistakable traces that it had
been used in a smelting furnace of some kind.
Coming down to later times we have the Clogau and
the Gwynfynydd mines. In the year 1860 a company
76 MERIONETHSHIRE
was promoted, which had for its chairman John Bright,
to work the Clogau gold mines. The yield is said to
have realised a profit of over twenty thousand pounds
per annum in the first years of working, but the venture
ultimately collapsed. In the nineties of the last century
a great impetus was given to the search by Mr Pritchard
Morgan, who carried on the undertaking himself with
marvellous success. A company was afterwards formed
and the work has proceeded regularly with varying fortune
up to the present day.
The Gwynfynydd mines were restarted upon modern
lines in 1888, and it is said that the output realised an
annual profit of fifty thousand pounds for many years.
These were closed down for a long time, but have
recently been reopened with new machinery.
There was also a gold mine at Cam Dochan in the
valley of the Lliw near Llanuwchllyn. This was on
the property of Sir Watkin W. Wynn, and was worked
by a company of which John Bright was also chairman.
In 1869 and thereabout it continued working when other
ventures in the county had ceased.
Copper mines are worked in the elevated tracts of the
Llawllech ridge, in the Eden valley, and on the Glasdir
near Llanfachreth, and lead mining engages many hands
at intermittent periods at Towyn, Dolgelly, and Dinas
Mawddwy.
Manganese ore is similarly worked at irregular intervals
at Harlech, Barmouth, Moelfre near Llanbedr, Maes-y-
garnedd in Cwm Nant Col, Cross Foxes, and Cwm
Mynach above Bontddu.
INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 77
The manufacturing capacity of the county is very
small. The most important manufacture is the weaving
of flannel and substantial woollen fabrics. These industries
are distributed throughout the villages of the districts where
homespuns are made. Dolgelly is the chief centre for this
kind of woollen stuff, though Dinas Mawddwy almost
rivals it in the production of flannel.
At Dolgelly, some years ago, a very superior kind of
Welsh tweed cloth was manufactured, which attained
considerable favour among the wholesale firms of London
and Manchester. Large contracts were executed for the
army, amounting it is said to .50,000 worth of fabrics
annually. That epoch was the golden era of the woollen
trade of the county town.
In a MS. of the late Robert Oliver Rees we learn
the following interesting particulars about the trade in
Welsh flannel : " Dolgelly and its neighbourhood has
been noted for several centuries for the manufacture of
a kind of coarse woollen cloth called Webs or Welsh
Flannel. This was formerly the principal trade and
source of emolument of the town. Nearly every poor
man within the town and every little farmer in the
neighbourhood had his loom and made his Webs, to
support himself and family. The Flannel Manufacture
of Dolgelly is specifically noticed in Acts of Parliament
of James I ; and the Privy Council of Charles II issued
two successive orders for its regulation. During the
interval of peace which lasted for some years between
the close of the American War and the commencement
of the great European revolution of 1793, Dolgelly was
78 MERIONETHSHIRE
calculated to return from ^50,000 to ^100,000 annually
in this article only. These Webs were chiefly used for
clothing the armies. The Webs were rolled up with
machines into half-bales of about 18 yards each, two of
these bales making a whole Web. The annual sale does
not now (1848) exceed 500 bales."
The town of Bala was famous in the past for its
knitted gloves, its stockings, and its woollen caps, the
latter being known as " Welsh wigs." As early as the
opening years of the nineteenth century the Rev. Walter
Davies, in his report on the Domestic Economy of North
Wales, says that this town was the chief market for the
sale of knitted stockings and socks, as well as the centre
of a wide circuit in which they were made. The principal
hosiers of the place at that time estimated the regular
trade in these commodities at from seventeen to nineteen
thousand pounds per annum. Since that time the business
of the making and the selling of stockings in these parts
has fallen off very much.
14. Fisheries and Fishing Stations.
The sea-fisheries of the British Islands take rank
among their most important industries, and provide regular
employment for thousands of hands. It is computed
that there are regularly engaged in this industry in
our country alone nearly a hundred thousand men and
boys. The total annual value of the fish caught in the
British Islands at the present time exceeds ten million
pounds sterling.
FISHERIES AND FISHING STATIONS 79
The chief methods of fishing are those carried on
by trawl-nets, drift-nets, and lines. The fish mainly
caught in the trawl-nets are turbot, brill, soles, dories,
and red mullet. These are called the " prime " class.
In the nets there will also be found plaice, haddock,
and whiting in countless numbers ; these are called by
fishermen, "offal," and sell at a lower price than the
" prime."
Drift-net fishing is the method employed for catching
mackerel, herring, and pilchards; fish that swim near the
surface of the water. It is called drift-fishing from the
manner in which the nets are manipulated. They are
neither fixed nor towed within any precise limits, but
are set out where fish are expected to be, and are allowed
to drift with the tide.
The finest mackerel-fishing ground in our country
extends from St David's Head in Pembrokeshire along
the South Wales coast into the waters of the Bristol
Channel. At times, however, great shoals of small
mackerel enter Cardigan Bay in June ; and are caught
in large quantities in September near the mouth of the
Dovey estuary. The fishermen of this little port sell
much of their catches at Towyn during the height of
the visiting season. The herring enters Cardigan Bay
in August in large shoals, but they generally keep to the
Aberystwyth portion of the coast. The Aberdovey
fishermen make great hauls of herring at certain seasons.
Line-fishing is relatively insignificant when compared
with the net-fishing, and yields not more than one-
fortieth of the total value of fish caught on our shores.
80
MERIONETHSHIRE
But line-fishing is carried on pretty generally in most
waters. The Welsh coast is the favourite haunt of the
bass, and along the waters of the Merionethshire coast
a large quantity of this fish is caught, together with
plaice, turbot, and mullet.
The season for bass-fishing extends from May to
September, and many are caught in the neighbourhood
of Aberdovey and Towyn. There is no better water
The Beach, Llwyngwril
for bass anywhere along the coast than the tidal water
of the Dysynni estuary. The fish frequently ascend the
broad Mawddach estuary as far as Penmaenpool, and it is
said they are sometimes taken in the upper reaches of
the tidal water, especially at high tides. Sometimes they
are very plentiful in the tidal limits of the Artro at
Llanbedr, and during high tides they are sometimes
found to travel up the creeks intersecting the Harlech
FISHERIES AND FISHING STATIONS 81
marshes. They are often taken in nets in the tidal
waters of the lower Glaslyn.
Turbot and brill are common on all parts of the
coast, especially at Barmouth. In the Dovey estuary
the turbot are caught in nets called foot-nets. A small
kind of cod is common in the Dovey estuary, and off
Barmouth. The whiting is intermittent in its visits
The Dwyryd River
between September and March, when good hauls are
taken. The flounder or fluke is plentiful in all the
estuaries, and at times is found to ascend the rivers for
long distances. Lemon-soles too are found along the
coast.
Fine lobsters and prawns are caught at Towyn. Oft
Barmouth good hauls are occasionally made of grey
mullet and skate ; and the latter fish is sometimes taken
M. M. 6
82 MERIONETHSHIRE
in trawls off Aberdovey. The fishermen of the Traeth
Bach catch much flat-fish by spearing, and it is inter-
esting to watch the men wade into the water up to
their chests in pursuit of their quarry.
Most of the Merionethshire streams and lakes abound
in fresh-water fish which afford anglers excellent sport.
In the Dovey salmon, sea-trout, and sewin are plentiful,
indeed for the two latter there is not a better stream in
North Wales, though the Dysynni is not far behind it.
In the Mawddach above Penmaenpool bridge the fly-
rod is used to advantage, and good sport is experienced
with the sewin. Near to Llanelltyd bridge excellent
salmon, trout, and sewin fishing is obtained. The
Camlan stream above Ty'n-y-Groes is well stocked with
small trout and the Wnion is a good sewin stream,
while its feeders are plentifully stocked with trout. It
has also a variety of silvery trout with a red fin near
the tail. Known to local fishermen as the "red-fin," it
rarely exceeds a quarter-of-a-pound in weight, and is
caught between the beginning of February and the
middle of May. The Artro and Dwyryd are good
sewin and trout streams. The latter in years gone by,
before the slate-quarrying industry of Festiniog attained
its huge proportions, was considered the best salmon
stream in North Wales. The waters of the eastern
watershed comprising the Dee and its tributaries also
afford good fishing.
The lakes of the county are well stocked with fish
of various kinds. Bala Lake has been referred to in an
earlier chapter as to its shoals of gwyniaid and other
FISHERIES AND FISHING STATIONS 83
species. The Aran is plentifully supplied with trout
which rise well to the fly in May, and fish of a pound
and over are often caught. The lakes at the base of
Cader Idris contain plenty of trout, perch, and eels.
The trout of Llyn-y-Gader are lean, unshapely specimens,
and are somewhat insipid. Of all the lakes of North
Wales, Talyllyn is the best natural trout water, and the
fish are of a most delicate flavour. Of the lakes of the
Ardudwy country, Llyn Dulyn is the best fishing water
so far as numbers are concerned. The best of the
Rhinog group is Llyn Perfeddan, in which the trout are
beautifully golden and firm, and are of the size of a
herring.
15. History of Merionethshire.
The Romans are the first people who have left us
written records of our country. They succeeded in
obtaining a footing in Merionethshire before the close
of the first century of the Christian era. They did not
find it an easy task, for they met with fiercer opposition
in Wales than in any other country, and this resistance
was carried on through a long series of years.
In the year 50 A.D., the two chief tribes, the Silures
of South Wales and the Ordovices of our county and
Montgomeryshire, acted together in resisting a general
attack of the Roman legions. The Britons were led
by Caractacus (more properly Caratacus), a Brython like
the Ordovices, though not of that tribe. He had fought
62
84 MERIONETHSHIRE
against the Romans for nine years, and had made his
home with the Silures. As Tacitus tells us, Caractacus
and his Britons were defeated at a hill-fortress in the
country of the Ordovices, which was protected on one
side by a river not easy to ford. Some authorities locate
this spot on the Breidden Hills in Montgomeryshire,
others in places not far removed from those hills, but
there is no certainty to-day of the exact spot. This
defeat in no sense completed the Roman Conquest.
The tribes of Wales continued their resistance, and
persevered in their harassing policy for nearly thirty years
after this. So persistent and active were they that it is
said that Ostorius Scapula, the conqueror of Caractacus,
died heart-broken at the vain efforts to subdue them.
Excellent military roads were constructed here with
marvellous skill, sufficiently wide in nearly all instances
for wheeled chariots. Probably the Romans experienced
greater difficulty in the making of roads in this county
than in any other part of the country. The gradients
and windings are most remarkable. These roads were
made not only for purposes of administration, but also
to reach the mines of lead, copper, and other minerals
in the mountainous parts. There is a significant proof
of this in a vicinal road which crossed from the Ganllwyd
to the wilds of Ardudwy by way of the "Roman Steps,"
well known to tourists. These steps leading from Cwm
Bychan over the pass are , truly wonderfully made,
forming a remarkable staircase of well-laid steps. The
conveyance of mineral ore of some kind or other can be
the only possible explanation of this elaborate and lengthy
The " Roman Steps," near Cwm Bychan
86 MERIONETHSHIRE
staircase in such an out-of-the-way place. We can
almost see the long procession of British slaves toiling
under these towering crags with their burdens on their
way to Tomen-y-Mur, the nearest Roman station.
After the departure of the Romans in the early years
of the fifth century, the chief event affecting our county
was the clearing out of the Goidel or Gael by the sons
of Cunedda, referred to in a previous chapter. These
followers of Cunedda were Brythons like the Ordovices
of Meirionydd.
During Saxon times the main districts of our county
were under the rule of the princes of Gwynedd,
and though some parts now in Merionethshire were in
Powys, the greater influence came from the princes of
Aberffraw. This was the time when all the British
people came to be known as Cymry, that is, Cym-bro
"people of the same bro," as opposed to the Ail-fro^ the
foreigner.
Many princes ruled our land during the Saxon period,
from Maelgwn Gwynedd to Gruffydd ap Llewelyn,
the enemy of Earl Harold of Hastings fame. It com-
prised the age of King Arthur, around whose name there
has been woven that cycle of myth and fantasy which
has charmed the greatest writers of our land. Some of
the Arthurian traditions still survive in this county.
In the time of Rhodri the Great, the Saxons of
Mercia made many attempts to invade Gwynedd. They
were every time repelled, and in 870 A.D., the Chronicles
tell us that a great battle was fought near Llangollen in
which the Mercians suffered terrible loss.
HISTORY OF MERIONETHSHIRE 87
Under Llewelyn ap Seisyllt and his son Gruffydd
the territories of Gwynedd and Powys were ruled by
the same sovereigns, and prospered greatly. Gruffydd
extended the limits of his rule far beyond Offa's Dyke,
and his name was a terror to the Saxon. Edward the
Confessor and his powerful earls were compelled upon
several occasions to sue for terms of peace from him. So
well did GrufFydd ap Llewelyn circumvent the Danes
that they dared not attack any part of his territory. In
every sense he was the most capable ruler Wales had
yet seen, and was king over all the Welsh race. He was
murdered by the treachery of his own people in 1063,
in order to pacify the wrath of Earl Harold.
With the close of the career of GrufFydd ap Llewelyn
we enter upon the period of Norman invasion. The
Normans after their conquest of England engaged in
the task of subduing Wales and built a number of castles
with that end in view. The greatest help to them in
this was the ever-present tendency to internecine quarrels
among the Welsh. The Normans learnt to watch for
these and allied themselves with the powerful parties,
joining in every quarrel for the purpose of gaining their
own ends.
The princes who were pre-eminent in opposing the
Norman attack in the earliest stages were Bleddyn ap
Cynfyn of Powys, and GrufFydd ap Cynan of Gwynedd.
Bleddyn was killed in battle in 1075 and, upon his death,
his cousin Trahaearn ap Caradog, the ruler of Arwystli,
a part of Montgomeryshire, seized upon the sovereignty.
But GrufFydd ap Cynan, the representative of the ancient
88 MERIONETHSHIRE
line of Gwynedd from Rhodri the Great and Cunedda,
came upon the scene.
He was assisted by the men of Gwynedd, who re-
garded Trahaearn, the man of Powys, as an interloper.
Gruffydd's first conflict with Trahaearn was at Gwaeterw
" The Bloody Acre," in Glyn Cyfyng, now known
as Dyffryn Glyncul in the hundred of Meirionydd.
Trahaearn was defeated and was driven in headlong flight
to his native Arwystli. Gruffydd pursued his advantage
and forced Trahaearn to stand at Mynydd Cam on the
borders of Cardiganshire in 1079, where a battle took
place, in which Trahaearn was slain. This second victory
decided the sovereignty of the north, and Gruffydd ap
Cynan became the undisputed ruler in Gwynedd and
Powys. Later, however, he was betrayed into the hands
of Hugh Lupus, "the Wolf," of Chester, and Hugh,
" the Red," of Shrewsbury, his bitterest enemies, and for
twelve years was a captive in Chester Castle, whence he
ultimately escaped to Ireland.
From Ireland Gruffydd ap Cynan returned with a
fleet of twenty-three ships and landed in Anglesey. The
men of Mon and Arfon immediately flocked to his standard
and a little later those of Meirionydd, Ardudwy, Penllyn,
and Edeyrnion. He also entered into an alliance with
Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, prince of Powys, and together they
harassed the Normans to such an extent that the barons
ultimately appealed to William Rufus for aid.
In 1096 the Norman king came into Wales by way
of Shrewsbury, and entered the highlands of Merioneth-
shire. By the first of November he was at Mur-y-Castell,
HISTORY OF MERIONETHSHIRE 89
or as it is now called Tomen-y-Mur, near Trawsfynydd.
But Gruffydd and Cadwgan from their safe mountain
fastnesses fell suddenly upon the Norman hosts and
caused William to beat a hasty retreat. He vowed, how-
ever, to return the following summer and exterminate
every Welshman in the land.
Rufus did return the following year as he had pur-
posed, but he was again compelled to quit Wales defeated,
having suffered great losses in men, horses, and treasure,
and having slain scarcely a man of the nation he had
vowed to exterminate. ,
After this there was peace in the land for a time, and
the English were content to leave Gwynedd and Powys
to be ruled by their native princes. Friendly intercourse
in time took place between the two nations, and Cadwgan
ap Bleddyn ultimately married the daughter of a Shropshire
baron.
Gruffydd ap Cynan was succeeded by his son Owain
Gwynedd, a prince of great prowess. He reigned at a
time when Wales presented a united front to English
encroachment and most certainly commanded due respect
from the kings of England. The age of Owain Gwynedd
was an age of great princes, and his influence lived through
the rule of his grandson Llewelyn ap lorwerth (surnamed
the Great) and that of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, the last
prince of Wales.
Owain Gwynedd was a great strategist. His success
in frustrating the attacks of Henry II at various times,
and especially in the year 1166 on the Berwyns near
Corwen, proves him to have been one of the most capable
90 MERIONETHSHIRE
and intrepid captains of his time. He died in the year
1169 after a reign of thirty-two years, having successfully
defended his father's realm and anticipated that union of
Wales which his grandson Llewelyn the Great firmly
established.
Llewelyn ap lorwerth, surnamed " the Great," grand-
son of Owain Gwynedd, fills an important place in the
annals of Wales of the thirteenth century. He dispossessed
Gwenwynwyn, prince of Powys, of the commote of
Penllyn and its castle of Bala, of which the famous
" Tomen " was probably the castle mound. Llewelyn
is said to have fortified this castle to prevent inroads into
.Meirionydd and Ardudwy.
Llewelyn married Joan, daughter of King John of
England, but he was often at variance with his father-in-
law, though his wife frequently proved an able peace-maker
between them. In the obtaining of the Magna Charta
Llewelyn took a very active part, and the Welsh benefited
equally with the English in its provisions. All the lands
which had been taken from them in Wales and the
Marches were restored to them. Other ordinances con-
ferring special liberties and privileges upon the Welsh
princes were obtained by Llewelyn, who carried great
influence in the councils of the barons. Acting upon the
restoration of the land by the Great Charter, Llewelyn
called together all the Welsh princes to define the limits
of each separate territory. This council met at Aber-
dovey in 1216, and the Welsh chieftains are said to have
returned home acknowledging Llewelyn as their suzerain
lord.
HISTORY OF MERIONETHSHIRE 91
The last of the native princes was Llewelyn ap
GrufFydd, the grandson of Llewelyn the Great. He came
to the throne in 1255 and for twenty-six years proved
himself a most capable and efficient ruler. He dominated
the country much as his grandfather did, and succeeded
in obtaining a much wider territorial influence as well as
a prouder title. He played a great part in the politics
of/ England and Wales of the thirteenth century and
succeeded more than any other prince in infusing a
patriotic spirit into the life of his countrymen. He met
his death in a most unexpected manner, not at the head
of his army in a great fight, but alone when engaged
upon some private errand in a part of the country far
from his native domains. With him died the spirit of
Welsh independence. There was no one to wear his
mantle. But the spirit of Welsh nationality was not
dead. It had been made an enduring principle of Welsh
aspiration by its last prince.
16. History Later Times.
In a little more than a hundred years after the fall
of the last Llewelyn occurred an extraordinary rising,
led by Owain Glyndwr of Glyn Dyfrdwy, which occu-
pies an important place in the annals of Merionethshire.
Bold, clever, and versatile, Glyndwr at once captivated and
held spell-bound the zeal and aspirations of his country-
men in all parts of Wales. They flocked to his standard
in immense hosts wherever he chose to unfurl it. He
92 MERIONETHSHIRE
appeared at a time in the history of the nation when
the people were suffering from the harsh, unjust^ and
cruel laws made in the reign of Henry IV, laws inten-
tionally passed in order to crush out of existence every
semblance of Cymric aspiration and nationality.
The direct and immediate cause of the rising was due
to the enmity between Glyndwr and his nearest neigh-
bour, Reginald, Lord Grey of Ruthin, the Marcher Lord,
who in the exercise of his duties as the King's representa-
tive purposely delayed serving Glyndwr with the King's
commands. The inability of Glyndwr to honour the
commands was looked upon as an act of treason to the
Crown. Lord Grey of Ruthin now obtained what he
had long desired. By permission of the King he attacked
the Welshman's homestead at Sycharth and seized upon
the estates of Glyn Dyfrdwy. This was done in so sudden
and unexpected a manner that Glyndwr had barely time
to escape. He soon retaliated, however, by burning Lord
Grey's castle at Ruthin to the ground, and the affair
at once became one of national importance. The people
came to him in thousands to Corwen from all parts.
From Edeyrnion, Penllyn, Ardudwy, and Dolgelly they
flocked to his standard, and hailed him as "Owain, Prince
of Wales."
Henry Hotspur, a son of the Earl of Northumberland,
was at that time Justice of North Wales and Constable
of its chief castles. He was commanded by the King
to take action forthwith, and accordingly in May, 1401,
he proceeded to Dolgelly with a strong military force.
At the foot of Cader Idris he met with the forces of
HISTORY LATER TIMES 93
Glyndwr. A severe but undecided conflict took place,
in which the followers of Glyndwr fully held their
ground. Hotspur did not attempt to renew the attack,
nor did he pursue Glyndwr farther, but quitted North
Wales and resigned his offices of Justice and Constable.
Glyndwr next met his enemy Lord Grey, the battle
taking place on the slopes of the Berwyn facing the
Vyrnwy. The Lord of Ruthin not only lost the day,
but was also made a prisoner. After several months in
the castle of Dolbadarn he was released, having consented
to pay the heavy fine of ten thousand marks, an enormous
sum for that time. The King, however, became surety.
He had also to take oath that he would never bear arms
against Glyndwr again. The King three times led an
expedition against Glyndwr, and three times was beaten
back discomfited. Shakespeare refers to this in King
Henry IV when he makes Glyndwr say :
"Three times hath Henry Bolingbroke made head
Against my power. Thrice from the banks of Wye
And sandy-bottomed Severn have I sent
Him bootless home and weather-beaten back."
(Pt i, in, i.)
Glyndwr summoned a parliament of his countrymen
in 1403, which met at Machynlleth. To this parliament
the majority of the nobility and gentry came in very large
numbers. Subsequently, in 1404, another parliament
met at Dolgelly, from which overtures were made to the
King of France " as a brother and an equal," which were
responded to in due course by the French King.
The Gateway, Harlech Castle
HISTORY LATER TIMES 95
The castle of Harlech had been seized upon early in
the rising by Glyndwr. He maintained possession of it
almost to the end of his brief but brilliant career. His
family lived at the castle, together with his son-in-law,
Edmund Mortimer, who died during the siege of the
castle by Henry IV's forces. In 1409 an attack was
made upon Harlech, led by Gilbert and John Talbot for
the King; the besiegers comprised one thousand well-
armed soldiers and a big siege train. The besieged were
in the advantageous situation of being able to receive
their necessary supplies from the sea, for the waves of
Cardigan Bay at that time washed the base of the rock
upon which the castle stands. Greater vigilance on the
part of the attacking force stopped this and the castle was
surrendered in the spring of the year. Glyndwr's wife,
her widowed daughter, and the other children were made
captives and taken to the Tower. But Glyndwr was not
in the castle when it was taken.
It is thought that he died in 1416, but no one knows
with certainty when or where. He appeared like a meteor
and was gone as suddenly. His greatness, however, is
shown in the effort which he made to create out of the
chaos of the time in which he lived a nation with high
ideals. His letter to the King of France proves him to
have been an ardent lover of his country, of which he
laboured to secure the independence. He desired also to
establish two universities in Wales, one in the north and
the other in the south. All these ideals vanished with
his disappearance, and have been realised only in part
some centuries after his death.
96 MERIONETHSHIRE
The seventy years which elapsed from the disappear-
ance of Owain Glyndwr to the coming of the Tudors
were dark days in the history of Wales. When
Edward IV ascended the throne after the victory of
Mortimer's Cross, in which he was assisted by a fine
body of Welshmen, he set about obtaining possession of
all the castles. Only a very few of these strongholds
held out, among which was Harlech, whejre young Henry
Tudor, Earl of Richmond, had found a temporary home.
The King sent an army to take it commanded by that
famous Welshman, Sir William ap Thomas of Raglan,
otherwise known as Sir William Herbert, Earl of Pem-
broke of the second creation. It was reduced by famine
and young Henry Tudor was made prisoner and conveyed
to Sir William's own castle at Raglan. He was not a cap-
tive for long, however, as at the battle of Banbury, in 1469,
Edward IV was defeated, and Sir William Herbert became
a prisoner and was afterwards beheaded. Jasper Tudor
obtained the release of his nephew, and for the next two
years the young man probably spent much of his time
between his uncle's domains and those of his friends the
Vaughans of Corsygedol.
After the defeat of the Lancastrian party at Tewkes-
bury in 1471, Jasper Tudor and the young Earl of
Richmond fled to Brittany, where they remained for
fourteen years. In the manuscript history of the
Vaughans of Corsygedol in the Mostyn Library it is
recorded that Griffith Vaughan of Corsygedol in the
reign of Edward IV, or that of Richard III, erected a
house at Barmouth that he might the more easily be in
HISTORY LATER TIMES 97
communication with Jasper Tudor and his nephew. This
house was called Y Ty gwyn yn Bermo "The white
house at Barmouth." This manuscript further states that
young Henry Tudor and his uncle escaped to France
from this place.
Henry Tudor landed at Milford Haven in 1485, and
was welcomed by many thousands of his countrymen.
They marched in great array to Market Bosworth, and
there on Bosworth Field was fought the decisive battle
which placed a scion of the ancient line of Cunedda
upon the English throne. The men of Meirionydd and
Ardudwy were there in great numbers, led by the Lord
of Cwm Bychan, in whose honour the Cymric air,
u Ffarwel Dai Llwyd," was composed.
17. Antiquities.
As stated on a former page no relics of Palaeolithic
man have as yet been discovered in Merioneth, but when
we come down to the next period, the Neolithic, we
have quite a wealth of evidence of various kinds, not only
in highly polished celts and other implements, but also in
monuments, such as stone circles, standing stones, barrows,
cromlechs, tumuli, and encampments of a very striking
character. It would be difficult to name a district of
Wales where more numerous or more important vestiges
of this kind exist than in the commote of Ardudwy.
The most interesting and unusual specimen of stone
implement found in Merionethshire is the beautiful and
M. M.. 7
98 MERIONETHSHIRE
elaborately-finished hammer-head discovered at Maesmawr,
near Corwen, more than fifty years ago, and particularly
noticed by Sir John Evans in his great work on Ancient
Stone Implements. It is covered with reticulated orna-
mentation worked with exact precision, and must have
cost much labour, and the perforation for the handle is
formed with singular symmetry.
Several flakes or chippings of flint having very fine
edges were found in 1854 mixed with burnt bones and
ashes in a cist of a stone circle near Llanaber. These
flints were found in a district which has produced no
native flint, and they were undoubtedly buried with the
Neolithic warrior who owned them, in the belief that they
would prove of use to him after death. In the cist of a
carnedd on Ffridd Eithinog, near Corsygedol, there were
also found flakes or chippings which were not of flint,
but of a hard siliceous grit. These were also mixed with
burnt bones and ashes, proving that the early people of
this territory cremated their dead. In other parts of
Merionethshire similar hard-stone flakes have been found.
The Ardudwy country is full of the larger remains of
the New Stone Age, comprising chambered cists encased
by immense cairns and surrounded by stone circles. We
have cromlechs and chambered barrows in plenty. On
the slopes of the hills running parallel to the coast, at
different elevations, are innumerable remains of dwell-
ings, enclosures, graves, and fortified strongholds of the
prehistoric people. These strongholds, almost without
exception, appear to be connected with the lines of
communication and passes, and were undoubtedly places
ANTIQUITIES 99
of safe retreat in case of danger. Of the chambered
barrows and cairns many have been ruthlessly destroyed ;
the stones of them having been used to build the sub-
stantial boundary walls seen in the neighbourhood. But
what remains of them are very characteristic as structures
of the Neolithic Age.
Perhaps the most interesting of all are the Carneddau
Hengwm, about a mile to the east of Egryn Abbey, near
Barmouth, and overlooked by the remains of an immense
camp known as Pen-y-Ddinas. These are two huge
cairns, of which the larger is 150 feet long. They lie
nearly north and south, parallel to, and near each other.
Originally they contained several cists or chambers sur-
mounted by capstones. Archaeologists state that nowhere
throughout Wales or England do there exist any monu-
ments of the Neolithic Age so striking as these of
Carneddau Hengwm. The camp on Pen-y-Ddinas was
the one which afforded shelter to the village settlement
connected with these carneddau. It commands two old
routes or trackways running north and south, the one
between the fortress and the coast, and the other, thought
to be the older route, running inland towards Corsygedol.
About two miles to the north is another old camp
called Craig-y-Ddinas, 1164 feet above sea-level. The
little stream Ysgethin washes the foot of the hill, and
Corsygedol is just two miles away in the valley below.
It is an excellent example of a stone fortress, and occupies
the entire summit. Immense boulders have entered into
its construction, and it has an entrance by a sloping
passage with walls on either side. At the distant end
72
100 MERIONETHSHIRE
from the entrance there are two circular apartments.
How thickly peopled the neighbourhood was is shown
not only by the remains of habitations and circles, but
also by the numerous cromlechs, which, however, are in
greatly diminished numbers at the present time.
The cromlechs are usually found in groups in the
Ardudwy neighbourhood. Sometimes they bear extra-
ordinary names in the vernacular. The one at Llanfair,
near Harlech, is known as Coeten Arthur "Arthur's
Quoit." Although these ancient burial places are in the
main the product of the Neolithic Age, it is presumed
that they may have been used for interment by the people
of the Bronze and perhaps the early Iron Age. In other
parts of this county we find structures of a similar kind,
although not so numerous as in the Ardudwy country.
These are the carneddau on Foel Fynydd Isaf, near
Dolgelly, and on Cadair Fronwen in the Berwyns ; the
latter has a huge menhir rising out of it.
In the east of the county and about a mile to the
north of Corwen is the famous encampment of Caer
Drewyn. It commands the vales of Glyn Dyfrdwy and
Edeyrnion, and exhibits a single vallum, partly wall and
partly earth, encompassed by a deep fosse. The walls
appear to have been very wide and show evidences of
rooms and apartments. Within the camp there are
foundations of rude circular stone buildings many yards
in diameter. The compass of the structure is sufficiently
large to have afforded protection for a whole tribe or
clan, together with their domestic animals.
To the north-east pf Harlech and scattered about,
ANTIQUITIES
101
within a radius of four miles from the castle, are extensive
enclosures, more or less perfect, containing clusters of
circular dwellings. The native folk call them Cytiau'r
Gwyddelod " Huts of the Gael." They are marked on
Caer Drewyn, near Corwen
the ordnance map as "Hut Circles" (see p. 61). These
hut circles are sometimes said to be relics of the people of
the Bronze Age. They have been much commented
upon and spoken of as vestiges of the Gael or Gwyddyl.
102 MERIONETHSHIRE
Archaeologists tell us that there was a primeval fortress
on the rock upon which Harlech Castle stands. If such
be the case it possibly formed a refuge in time of danger
for the inhabitants of these circular dwellings.
The finds of bronze implements are not numerous in
this county, but what have been found are very interest-
ing. In a small mound a little to the north of the Roman
fort of Tomen-y-Mur a bronze dagger-knife, 2^ inches
in length, was disinterred some years ago, together with
a needle of very hard wood 6 inches in length. Both
Bronze dagger-knife found at Tomen-y-Mur
were with ashes and burnt bones in a large earthenware
urn of simple design. Among the other finds have been
bronze spear-heads and three dagger-blades at Cwm Moch,
near Bala ; a slender bronze palstave at Beddau Gwyr
Ardudwy ; a similar bronze palstave and dagger-blade
at Trawsfynydd ; a massive bronze palstave at Llanfair,
near Harlech ; a looped palstave and a bronze celt at
Harlech. All these are in the British Museum.
Perhaps the most remarkable find of the county is the
valuable gold torque discovered near Harlech in the seven-
teenth century, and now in the possession of the Mostyn
ANTIQUITIES
103
family. It is a wreathed rod of gold about four feet
along the curve ; three spiral furrows with sharp inter-
vening ridges run along its whole length ; the ends are
plain and truncated, turning back like pot-hooks.
The antiquities of Roman times are those chiefly
associated with the military stations along the lines of
communication from South Wales and from England.
Centurial Stones from Tomen-y-Mur
(Now in Harlech Castle]
There are three of these stations in the county, situated
at Tomen-y-Mur near Trawsfynydd, at Caergai near the
head of Bala Lake, and at Pennal near the estuary of
the Dovey.
The station at Tomen-y-Mur was reached by several
roads, coming from various directions from the north and
104 MERIONETHSHIRE
from the south. It is the work of military men, as is
proved by the nine centurial stones found there bearing
the names of the commanders. These stones each mea-
sure 1 5 inches in length by 8 inches in height. Six of them
are at Harlech Castle, two are at Tan-y-Bwlch Hall, and
one is at Maentwrog Church. The broken pieces of
Samian ware found suggest that the fort was probably
built during the later years of the first century of the
Christian era, possibly in the Flavian period (A.D. 70-95).
The fort is situated on an eminence about half-way
down the great slope which forms the eastern side of the
Vale of Festiniog. The land falls from it on all sides,
and a small feeder of Nant Islyn, a tributary of Nant
Prysor, flows near its southern angle. It commands an
extensive view of the whole country, and in shape it is
rectangular with rounded corners, being 390 feet in length
by 510 feet in breadth from E. to W. It encloses an area
of about 4^ acres. Two gateways, one of them with an
appropriate guard-chamber, still survive. The whole is
surrounded by a deep fosse and a vallum in which are
the remains of Roman masonry built of hard non-local
stone.
Within the compass of the fort and in the north-
west quarter is a great mound of earth, from which the
station takes its present name. The tomen is not Roman
work, but is considered to be the mound of a medieval
fortification reared either by Norman-English conquerors
of Wales or by Welshmen copying their fashion. A
little removed from the fort and near the banks of the
little stream, there were unearthed the foundations of the
ANTIQUITIES 105
bath-house, the invariable accompanying structure of
every military fortress.
The fort at Caergai stood on a rounded hillock from
which the ground falls abruptly on all sides. Its ram-
parts and ditch enclose a square measuring 140 yards
each way and having an area of about four acres. The
finds here comprise bricks, tiles, Samian ware, some blue
pottery, and coins, and, in the field known as Cae Dentir,
many coarse grey urns containing human bones and
ashes. In 1885 there was also discovered an inscribed
stone, stating that "Julius the son of Gavero, a soldier
of the first cohort of Nervii, made this." It is known
that this cohort was in Britain in A.D. 105, and may
well have formed the garrison here.
The third Roman fort of the county is at Cefn-Caer,
close to Pennal church, and near the northern bank of
the Dovey. It is quadrangular in form and occupies
the summit of a low hill, which rises gently in the
middle of a small valley, not far from the water-side.
When first discovered a pitched way led from the fort
down to the river. This station is on the line of road
from Llanio in Cardiganshire to Tomen-y-Mur, round
Cader Idris, and was known as Sarn Elen in the
vernacular. Many roads of Roman construction are
known by this name in Wales. Elen or Helen was the
name of a British lady of distinction, wife of the Emperor
Maximus.
106 MERIONETHSHIRE
18. Architecture (a) Ecclesiastical.
Churches and Abbeys.
The county of Merioneth is not especially distin-
guished among the counties of Wales for its great edifices
in the form of monasteries, abbeys, and cathedrals of
British and medieval times. It contains no remains of
the Welsh saints epoch of the sixth century, in the form
of ancient cor or college, like Bangor-is-y-coed, Llantwit
Major, or Tygwyn-ar-Daf, the three great seminaries
of the British period, memorable as the early home
and missionary centre of primitive Christianity in these
islands. Neither does it possess an ancient Gothic
cathedral, like Bangor in Arfon, or St David's in the
south. But many of its country churches are inter-
esting, not so much from an architectural standpoint,
as from their supposed early foundation and association
with the names of the titular saints to whom they are
dedicated.
The various phases of development of architecture in
our country are conveniently called the Saxon, the Norman
or Romanesque, the Early English, the Decorated, the
Perpendicular, the Tudor, and the Renaissance styles,
and a preliminary word on these various styles of English
architecture is necessary before we consider the churches
and other important buildings of our county.
Pre-Norman or, as it is usually, though with no great
certainty, termed Saxon building in England, was the
work of early craftsmen with an imperfect knowledge of
ARCHITECTURE ECCLESIASTICAL 107
stone construction, who commonly used rough rubble
walls, no buttresses, small semi-circular or triangular
arches, and square towers with what is termed " long-
and-short work " at the quoins or corners. It survives
almost solely in portions of small churches.
The Norman conquest started a widespread building
of massive churches and castles in the continental style
called Romanesque, which in England has got the name
of u Norman." They had walls of great thickness, semi-
circular vaults, round-headed doors and windows, and
massive square towers.
From 1150 to 1200 the building became lighter, the
arches pointed, and there was perfected the science of
vaulting, by which the weight is brought upon piers and
buttresses. This method of building, the " Gothic,"
originated from the endeavour to cover the widest and
loftiest areas with the greatest economy of stone. The
first English Gothic, called " Early English," from about
1 1 80 to 1250, is characterised by slender piers (commonly
of marble), lofty pointed vaults, and long, narrow, lancet-
headed windows. After 1250 the windows became
broader, divided up, and ornamented by patterns of
tracery, while in the vault the ribs were multiplied. The
greatest elegance of English Gothic was reached from
1260 to 1290, at which date English sculpture was at
its highest, and art in painting, coloured glass making,
and general craftmanship at its zenith.
After 1300 the structure of stone buildings began
to be overlaid with ornament, the window tracery and
vault ribs were of intricate patterns, the pinnacles and
108 MERIONETHSHIRE
spires loaded with crocket and ornament. This later
style is known as " Decorated," and came to an end
with the Black Death, which stopped all building for
a time.
With the changed conditions of life the type of
building changed. With curious uniformity and quick-
ness the style called "Perpendicular" which is unknown
abroad developed after 1360 in all parts of England and
lasted with scarcely any change up to 1520. As its name
implies, it is characterised by the perpendicular arrange-
ment of the tracery and panels on walls and in windows,
and it is also distinguished by the flattened arches and the
square arrangement of the mouldings over them, by the
elaborate vault-traceries (especially fan-vaulting), and by
the use of flat roofs and towers without spires.
The medieval styles in England ended with the
dissolution of the monasteries (1530 1540), for the
Reformation checked the building of churches. There
succeeded the building of manor-houses, in which the
style called " Tudor " arose distinguished by flat-headed
windows, level ceilings, and panelled rooms. The orna-
ments of classic style were introduced under the influences
of Renaissance sculpture and distinguish the "Jacobean "
style, so called after James I. About this time the
professional architect arose. Hitherto, building had been
entirely in the hands of the builder and the craftsman.
The churches of Merionethshire as a rule are small
and unpretentious, but some of them contain many features
which are both interesting and striking. Their dedication
to the Welsh saints of the sixth century, and possibly the
ARCHITECTURE ECCLESIASTIC AL 1 09
foundation of some of them by these ancient fathers, adds
lustre to their name. Among these we have Llanelltyd
dedicated to St Illtyd ; Llangelynin of the supposed founda-
tion of St Celynin ; Llanfor with a double dedication to
St Mor and St Deiniol ; Llandrillo dedicated to St Trillo,
a companion of Cadvan, an Armorican prince of the sixth
century ; Corwen with a double dedication to St Mael
and St Sulien, two other saintly companions of Cadfan ;
Llandderfel, a supposed foundation of Derfel Gadarn a
son of Emyr Llydaw ; Llandanwg dedicated to St Tanwg ;
and Llanddwywe dedicated to St Ddwywe. The above
churches bear the name of the saints in their designation.
There are other churches which may have been founded
by the early saints and are dedicated to them, but are
called by other names. Among these we have Towyn
founded by St Cadvan of Armorica, Llanycil founded
by St Beuno, Llanaber dedicated to St Bodvan with
a later dedication to the Virgin Mary, Mallwyd dedi-
cated to St Tydecho, Trawsfynydd to St Madryn, and
Llanuwchllyn to St Deiniol. The structures of this
early period were undoubtedly exceedingly plain and
simple. No stone edifices have survived in any part of
the county. It seems probable that the first sanctuaries
were made of wood and wattled plaitings, and daubed on
the outside with mud and clay.
When the British prelates began to conform to Romish
customs between 800 and 850, we have numerous dedi-
cations throughout Wales to Michael the Archangel, by
which the churches were called Llanfihangel. In this
county we have Llanfihangel-y-Pennant and Llanfihangel-
110
MERIONETHSHIRE
y-Traethau. Afterwards come the dedications to the
Virgin Mary ; among such are Talyllyn and Llanfair.
Lastly followed the dedication to the apostles, chiefly the
apostle Peter, and All Saints. Such are Llanbedr and
Llangar.
Llanfor Church
There is very little of Norman work in the county.
The only church with any striking architecture of this
style is the one at Towyn, an old cruciform structure.
The nave is of a very rude description, but it is an excel-
lent example of very early Norman work. It is divided
ARCHITECTURE ECCLESIASTICAL 1 1 1
from each aisle by three rude semi-circular arches, on low
round Norman pillars. The clerestory windows, now
internally closed, are also Norman. Another church with
specimens of Norman work is Llanaber, which has a
chancel arch with good mouldings springing from shafts
with capitals bearing foliage of Romanesque style. In
Llanaber Church
Llanegryn church there is a font of Early Norman date
shaped like a cushion capital. The mode in which the
upper part of the square exterior is rounded off, so as to
accommodate it to the circular interior, is remarkable.
The church of Llanfihangel in the adjoining parish has a
similar font which, however, is of better workmanship.
112
MERIONETHSHIRE
It is a good Norman specimen, the bowl being square and
scalloped on its lower edge, while the stem is cylindrical
on a high square base. At Talyllyn, too, there is an old
Norman font.
The Early English style is seen at its best in the
Llanaber church, a couple of miles to the north of
Llanegryn Church
Barmouth. This building, perched above the sea in a
steep little graveyard, is recognised by authorities as the
most notable example of Early English in North Wales.
Though the church is small it has a nave with clerestory,
side aisles, and chancel of pure Early English work.
Within the south porch is a beautiful Early Gothic door-
way, equal to the best of that style found in Wales or
ARCHITECTURE ECCLESIASTICAL 1 13
England. The nave is divided from each aisle by five
low pointed arches springing from circular pillars, some
of which have octagonal capitals with foliage. The
chancel has a single lancet with mouldings at the east
end, and on the north is a late square-headed window.
The clerestory of the nave is high and genuine Early
English with single lancets. At the east end of the
aisles there are also lancets closed up.
Many of the churches of Merionethshire have some
splendid examples of the Perpendicular style. Undoubtedly
the most striking is that to be seen in Llanegryn church,
which is situated on a slight elevation in the basin of the
Dysynni, near Peniarth. Outwardly, it is an unpreten-
tious structure, but it possesses a remarkable rood-loft,
considered to be the most beautiful specimen of this
kind in North Wales. It is a work of the early
fourteenth century, and is in a perfect state, reaching
nearly to the roof. It is finished off beautifully by two
fine vine-leaf cornices. The great tithes of Llanegryn
parish were in olden times appropriated by the monks of
Cymmer Abbey, and they are reputed to have built the
original church, and to have brought the rood-loft here
from their Abbey. The church of Llandderfel is superior
in its architectural character to the generality of Welsh
churches. It is of fair Perpendicular work and perfectly
uniform, consisting of a lofty single body. Between the
nave and the chancel is a Perpendicular rood-screen,
each compartment having foliated arches with enriched
spandrels. The church of St Cadfan at Towyn has its
east window of three lights in the Perpendicular style.
M. M. 8
114
MERIONETHSHIRE
Other churches with Perpendicular work are Llangar,
Llanfor, Llandrillo, Talyllyn, Llanfair, Llanddwywe, and
Llandanwg.
The ruins of monastic establishments are very few,
the most famous being Cymmer Abbey. We cannot but
admire the taste of the monks in choosing the most lovely
spots of our land for their abode. The scenery of the
Llanfair Church
Ganllwyd, where the old Cistercians built their abbey, is
most delightful in its seclusion. This religious house was
founded in 1198 by Meredydd and Gruffydd, the grand-
sons of Owain Gwynedd. The native folk call it by the
name of Y Vaner, which some authorities interpret as
Man Ner, "The place of God."
ARCHITECTURE ECCLESIASTIC AL 1 1 5
Its present remains prove it to have been a really fine
structure, and many features still survive to tell of past
grandeur. A portion of the conventual church shows at
its east end three lancet windows, and the large old
refectory of the abbey, together with some parts of the
abbot's lodge, form the Vaner farmhouse.
The charter of its incorporation is dated 1240. Its
Cymmer Abbey
numerous clauses include a host of privileges, giving the
monks authority over rivers, lakes, and seas, all kinds of
birds, beasts wild and tame, mountains, woods, things
movable and things immovable, all things upon and under
the land, with full liberty of digging for hidden treasures,
and unrestricted mining rights.
In a short time after its foundation we are told that a
number of monks came to reside here from Cwmhir
82
1 16 MERIONETHSHIRE
Abbey in Radnorshire. It is, however, a mistake to say
that it owes its foundation to them, as some authors state.
Llewelyn ap lorwerth, surnamed "the Great," became its
patron, and confirmed to it its charter, giving certain
rights to various lands. Most of the parish of Llanfach-
reth and the valleys to the north and west were - its
domains. Esgair-gawr belonged to it, as did also the
parish of Llanegryn. The property of the Abbey re-
mained in the possession of the Crown for a long time
after the dissolution of the monasteries, and Queen
Elizabeth gave it to her favourite, Robert, Earl of
Leicester.
19. Architecture (6) Military. Castles.
Merionethshire is not rich in medieval fortresses.
The reason for this is that the Normans, when they
occupied England and made their inroads into Wales,
were not able to possess themselves of any part of this
county for any considerable length of time. In some of
the Welsh counties, especially in Glamorgan and Mon-
mouth, there are more than a score of castles of Norman
origin. The mountainous nature of this county made it
very difficult for the Normans to build castles to overawe
the Cymry, but as soon as a Norman baron settled in any
part of Wales, his first thought was to build himself
a fortress of stone. He never felt safe within our borders
unless he had one of these strongholds to protect him
from the unceasing attacks of the Welsh.
ARCHITECTURE MILITARY 117
When William Rufus made his two disastrous in-
vasions of Gwynedd and was compelled to beat a hasty
and ignominious retreat upon each occasion, he instructed
his marcher-lords that they were to build castles in every
commanding and advantageous situation. But this ap-
parently did not affect our territory of Merioneth. The
great period of castle-building in Wales came later, under
King Stephen, who endeavoured to make good terms with
his barons by permitting them to erect large fortresses
wherever they chose.
The early Norman castle consisted of a lofty and very
thick wall with towers and bastions, enclosing a wide area.
Outside the walls there was generally a moat filled with
water, which was crossed by a drawbridge leading to the
principal gate, which was strongly defended by covering
towers. Above the gate there were openings or holes
through which molten lead, boiling water, or hot pitch
might be poured down upon the besiegers when they
succeeded in getting near. The drawbridge was raised
and lowered by great chains, whilst the gate itself
was a thick heavy door or a strong iron grille called a
portcullis.
Within the walls was the bailey or outer court.
Here were the stables, the store-houses, and part of the
dwellings of the garrison or retainers. Within this
again there was usually another wall protected by towers
and a gate, leading to the inner bailey or court which
contained the keep, a square building of great strength,
in fact the citadel of the castle, the last place of retreat
in case of need. It consisted of several storeys or floors,
1 18 MERIONETHSHIRE
the ground floor containing no windows. It was provided
with a deep well for supplying the citadel with water in
time of siege.
None of the few castles of Merionethshire are of the
Early Norman type. Our most famous structure, and
perhaps the most famous in the whole of the land, is
Harlech Castle, erected in the thirteenth century. Yet
Harlech, according to the traditions of this county, goes
back in its origin to. much earlier times. One of its
towers, known as Twr Bronwen, is a name that carries
us back to the times of Bran ap Llyr. Some authorities
say that the first fortress of a military character erected
here was built by Maelgwn Gwynedd some time in the
sixth century. In the eleventh century it seems to have
been known as Caer Collwyn. Collwyn ap Tango was
lord of Eifionydd, Lleyn, and Ardudwy, and lived in the
time of Anarawd, King of Gwynedd, in the ninth century.
Collwyn resided in a square tower of the original building,
the remains of which may still be seen, for some of its
walls form the base of the present structure.
The castle as it stands to-day is a fine example of the
Edwardian type, erected immediately after the conquest
of Wales by Edward the First. It stands on a lofty
perpendicular rock, the base of which, at the time of its
erection, was washed by the sea. It was utterly unassail-
able from the water side, whilst on the land side it was
protected by a wide and deep fosse cut out of the solid
rock. A remarkable feature of the castle is a covered
staircase cut out of the rock, defended on the seaward
side by a looped parapet, and closed above and below by
120 MERIONETHSHIRE
small gatehouses. This was the water-gate of the fortress,
and opened upon a small quay below. The castle is a
fine and commanding square structure with a circular
tower at each angle. The entrance gateway is similar to
that of Caerphilly Castle. Like the latter, too, it has
no keep. For natural strength and grandeur of position
it has no equal in Great Britain. The masonry through-
out is exceedingly rough, as though hastily executed. It
appears to have been completed before the year 1283, for
the records of Edward the First state that Hugh de
Wlonkeslow was the Constable, with an annual allowance
of one hundred pounds.
Margaret of Anjou, the spirited queen of Henry the
Sixth, found an asylum here after the defeat of her
husband at the battle of Northampton in 1460. The
south-east tower for some centuries bore her name. It
was from here that she went forth with an army of
Welshmen to the victory of Wakefield. When Edward
the Fourth ascended the throne after the victory of
Mortimer's Cross in 1461, in which he was assisted by
a great host of Welshmen whose sympathies were Yorkist,
only a very small number of castles continued to resist,
among which we find Harlech. Dafydd ap Einion was
the governor, a firm and stedfast ally of the Lancastrian
party. Sir William ap Thomas, otherwise known as
Sir William Herbert of Raglan, Earl of Pembroke of the
second creation, was sent against it, but found himself
unable to take the castle by storm. He therefore left
the siege in charge of his brother Richard, to reduce it by
famine. Starvation did its work, but Dafydd ap Einion
ARCHITECTURE MILITARY
121
would not yield except upon honourable terms, which
comprised an unconditional pardon. This was granted,
but Edward refused to ratify the pardon. "Then sire,"
said Sir Richard, "you may if you please, take my life in
lieu of the Welsh captain's. I will most assuredly replace
Dafydd in his castle, and you, Sire, may send whom
you will to take him out."
Ruins of the Keep, Bere Castle
In the Civil War Harlech Castle was held for King
Charles the First by Sir Hugh Pennant. It fell into
the hands of General Mytton in March, 1647, an ^
it and Raglan Castle in Monmouthshire were the last
castles in the realm which held out for that ill-fated
monarch.
Towering high above the Dysynni river, on a curiously
detached rock, is an interesting old ruin known as Bere
1 22 MERIONETHSHIRE
Castle. It is thought to have been erected in the reign of
Henry the Second. That king's discomfiture in North
Wales in the year 1157 is said to have prompted the
erection of this and other similar structures. It retains in
its ruins some magnificent features of the Early English
style of architecture, and was undoubtedly a place of
enormous strength. The existing remains show it to
have extended over the whole of the summit of the rock,
and one apartment of it, measuring 36 feet across, is cut
in the solid rock. In some parts the lines of circum-
vallation consisted of loose stones piled high up on the
edges of the precipice. The other sides appear to have
been well defended by walls of squared stones cemented
with mortar composed of calcined shells mixed with
gravel.
Some authorities state that Edward the First gave the
custody of Bere Castle to Robert Fitzwalter, with leave
to hunt all wild animals in the country around Cardigan
Bay. The castle seems before this to have been in the
possession of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of
Wales, and William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke,
captured it sometime before the fall of the prince near
Builth.
The Welsh Chronicles tell us that Uchtryd ap Edwyn
erected a castle at "Cymmer in Meirionydd" in the year
1114. Robert Vaughan of Hengwrt, whose residence
was close by, states in his writings that the castle stood
on a small hillock called the Pentre, upon which in his
time there was a flour-mill, a smithy, and several small
tenements. We know nothing more of this old fortress;
ARCHITECTURE MILITARY 123
the name only survives. Its proximity to the famous
Cymmer Abbey leads one to assume that at a later date
the monks of the old sanctuary considered its site suitable
for their abode. It may have fallen into disuse when this
took place.
Poised on a spur of the overhanging mountains in the
valley of the Lliw, a tributary of the upper Dee, is an old
ruined structure known as Castell Carn Dochan. It is
now a mere heap of stones, but we are told by reliable
authorities that it was a pre-Norman structure, a
stronghold of the princes and chieftains of Penllyn and
Ardudwy. Close by are the old workings of a gold mine,
which according to tradition was worked by the Romans
in the first century of the Christian era, when their
soldiers were encamped at Caergai in the valley below.
20. Architecture (c) Domestic. Famous
Seats, Manor Houses, Farms,
Cottages.
Although Merionethshire does not possess a great
array of military structures in the form of imposing
castles and castellated mansions, yet it boasts of a wealth
of fine old manor houses and stately mansions, which
came into existence in the period immediately succeeding
the close of the Wars of the Roses, when the long epoch
of baronial supremacy came to an end. In the country
families there arose a new landed class, who were more
closely associated with the masses of the people in their
124 MERIONETHSHIRE
social life and aspirations, and took a greater interest in
their general welfare than the old baronial families did.
Many of the older gentry of the county, of whom
there are a large numher, can trace their pedigree back to
very remote times; and their ancient domains and home-
steads have been in the possession of their families for
many generations. Some of them were devoted and
The Hengwrt
careful collectors of our ancient records, and the nation
owes a deep debt of gratitude to them for the collection
and preservation of our earliest manuscripts, which rank
amongst the most treasured records of the British Islands.
The Hengwrt is an ancient edifice nestling cosily
in the trees near the ruins of Cymmer Abbey. This
was the home of the Vaughans, a famous family, and the
ARCHITECTURE DOMESTIC 125
birthplace of Robert Vaughan, the well-known antiquary
of the seventeenth century. His priceless collection,
known as the Hengwrt MSS., is probably the most
interesting and remarkable private collection in Europe.
It comprises such treasures as "The Black Book of
Caermarthen," The Book of Taliesin," " The White
Book of Rhydderch," the oldest version of the Mabi-
nogion, "The Sanct Greal," and many others of in-
estimable value, such as the Hengwrt MS. of " The
Canterbury Tales." These have been purchased for the
nation by that great patriot, Sir John Williams, M.D.
Peniarth, which lies on the north bank of the river
Dysynni, takes us back in portions of its architecture to
the fourteenth century, but its main existing parts were
built in 1700, and were added to in 1812. It was known
in the earliest times as Maes Peniarth. In the reign of
Henry the Fifth its owners were of the line of Ednowain
ap Bradwen, Lord of Merioneth, and through his descen-
dants in Tudor times it passed to a nephew of Lewis
Owen, Baron of the Exchequer. Then it descended to
a branch of the Wynnstay and Bodelwyddan families,
and finally to the Wynnes, its present owners. The
famous Hengwrt MSS. were safely housed here after
their removal from Hengwrt, until their transference to
the National Library at Aberystwyth.
Nannau, a seat of the Vaughans, stands at an elevation
of 700 feet above sea-level, about two miles to the north
of Dolgelly. The present house is not of later date than
the closing years of the eighteenth century, but the older
seat close by, now used as farm-buildings, was built in
1 26 MERIONETHSHIRE
the fourteenth century. Howel Sele, its owner in those
early days, met with a tragic end at the hands of Owain
Glyndwr. The story of the fatal fray and the finding of
Howel's skeleton in the hollow trunk of an oak tree long
years after, has been told by Sir Walter Scott in his
Marmion :
All nations have their omens drear,
Their legends wild of foe and fear,
To Cambria look the peasant see,
Bethink him of Glendowerdy,
And shun the 'Spirit's Blasted Tree.'"
Corsygedol, 5^- miles north of Barmouth, the ancient
home and seat of a branch of the Vaughan family, is a
most interesting homestead of the Elizabethan age. It
has a gateway designed by Inigo Jones. One of the
family, Gruffydd Vychan, is famous for the part he took
in aiding Henry Tudor to reach the throne ; he was
subsequently squire of the body to the Tudor king. A
manuscript of Robert Vaughan of Hengwrt says that he
" was in great credit with Jasper, Earl of Pembroke, who
lay in his house at Cors y Gedol, when he fled to France
in the time of Edward the Fourth, and as some report,
Harry, the Earl of Richmond with him, who afterwards
was King of England."
Cwm Bychan is an old mansion of limited archi-
tectural pretensions, yet it is typical of the buildings so
dearly-loved by Welsh folk, and is most beautifully
situated. This was the home of the Llwyds, an ancient
family of Ardudwy, descendants in a direct line from
Cynfyn, prince of Powys, who have been the owners
ARCHITECTURE DOMESTIC 127
without a break from Norman times. The house appears
to have been originally erected sometime in the fifteenth
century, and is, to-day, an old-world place rebuilt in parts
about the close of the following century.
Rug, in the vale of Edeyrnion, is a house of modern
date. The old mansion, of castellated design, is now in
ruins ; it occupied a slight elevation not far from the
present edifice. In its precincts took place the treacherous
betrayal and capture of Gruffydd ap Cynan in the eleventh
century. The old castle and domains were the home of
Owain Brogyntyn, a prince of Powys, of the time of
Llewelyn the Great.
Rhiwaedog, near the eastern end of Bala Lake, is the
famous ancestral home of a long line of Welsh princes.
In the twelfth century it was the abode of Rhirid Flaidd,
lord of Penllyn, and at that time was called Neuaddau
Gleision. The dining-room contains a magnificent
cornice embodying the arms of Owain Gwynedd, whose
lineal descendants were then the proprietors. In an
upstairs room there are escutcheons bearing the arms of
that prince, and the wolf of Rhirid. The courtyard is
entered by a covered gatehouse. Above the porch of the
western wing is the date 1664, but the general features
of the old manor house are of much earlier date, though
the eastern wing has been rebuilt within the last 150
years.
Plas Rhiwlas, the only castellated mansion in the
county, has long been the home of the Price family. Its
grounds have beautiful examples of various kinds of trees
of great size, and the property is one of the most extensive
128
MERIONETHSHIRE
in the county. Three miles from Towyn and on the
right bank of the Melindre stands Dolau Gwyn, a three-
gabled old mansion, now a farmhouse. It is in the
Jacobean style, and its walls and ceilings are frescoed
with armorial bearings. It was long the residence of a
junior branch of the family of Ynys-y-Maengwyn.
Plas Rhiwlas
Many'other mansions of great repute are to be seen in
all parts of the county. Some of these have as interesting
a story as those noticed above, and have their beginnings
in Tudor times or even earlier. Among them we have
Plas Tan-y-Bwlch in the valley of the Dwyryd ; Dol-y-
Moch in the same neighbourhood, with its remarkable
ARCHITECTURE DOMESTIC 1 29
escutcheons of the Fifteen Royal Tribes of Gwynedd
worked in the ceiling of the great hall, and its character-
istic old-world chimneys; Y Dduallt, the home of the
Lloyds; Tan-y-Manod; Pengwern, the county residence
of Baron Newborough ; Plas Dinas Mawddwy ; Rhagatt,
Old Houses, Dolgelly
near Corwen, a very old place ; The Hendre near Llwyn-
gwril, now a farmhouse ; Llanfendigaid near Towyn ;
Garthyngharad near Arthog, formerly the residence of
Sir Richard Wyatt; and Hengwrt Uchaf near Drws-y-
Nant, with its imposing gateway at the entrance to its
park.
M. M. 9
130 MERIONETHSHIRE
More or less ancient, but wearing a modern garb, are
Caerynwch and Dolserau Hall near Dolgelly, the former
at one time the residence of Baron Richards of the
Exchequer ; Glanllyn, the county seat of Sir Watkin
Williams- Wynn of Wynnstay; Pale near Llandderfel,
visited by Queen Victoria in the time of Sir Henry
Robertson, M.P., the designer of the Dee Viaduct, and
many others.
In the farmhouses a great improvement has set in
during the past century. More ample accommodation is
to be found in them for the family and the servants.
The regular practice of whitewashing the exterior of the
premises and the outbuildings is commonly resorted to in
all parts of the county. This gives a clean, but artistically
unattractive appearance. Farmhouses and cottages are
alike built of stone and roofed with slate.
21. Communications Past and Present.
Before we deal with the present means of internal
communication in the county we may turn for a moment
to consider those of the past. We have seen that the
mountainous and hilly parts of the county far exceed the
low-lying districts, and that there is no considerable
extent of surface which may reasonably be called a plain.
This has ever been the greatest obstacle to the construc-
tion of good roads. The initial expense of making them
was in former times the main insurmountable barrier.
The primitive Welsh trackways and bridle-paths
would pass along the declivitous glades of a valley, until
COMMUNICATIONS 131
at its furthest limits a mountain barrier confronted them.
Our modern method would be to skirt the slopes in as
gentle a gradient as possible. But our forefathers scorned
such methods ; they would ascend the mountain abruptly,
almost in step-ladder fashion. The old roads of Scandi-
navia seem to have been of the same character, and they
were, perhaps, as well adapted to the then state of society
as ours are at present. These steep ascents covered a
retreat in times of invasion or of tribal broils. Good
roads would have hastened the annihilation of the liberty
they so highly valued and so strenuously defended. We
have some striking instances to-day of these sudden passes in
Bwlch-y-Groes near Llan-y-Mawddwy, Bwlch Oerddrws
near Dolgelly, and Bwlch Ardudwy above Llanbedr.
Traces of many others are still with us, but they are not
used as formerly, and connected with them are the ancient
British trackways leading over and along the highest
ridges and elevations.
The Romans were the first to construct anything in
the form of a road in the strict interpretation of the term.
We have referred to this in a previous chapter. There
was a necessity that all parts of the country should be
properly linked together by a network of roads, to enable
the various divisions of the legions to pass from station
to station as necessity arose. The Roman roads were
excellently constructed, but after the departure of the
Romans in the fifth century and the invasion of the
country by various hordes from every direction, they were
permitted to lapse into a state of bad repair and perhaps
disuse. There was probably no attempt to maintain the
92
132 MERIONETHSHIRE
roads in this county at any time during the medieval
period, nor indeed until much later.
When we arrive at the Tudor period we learn that
Parliamentary legislation was resorted to in order that
proper means of communication might be instituted with
various parts of the county and places on the border. In
the reign of Queen Elizabeth we are told that the sheriffs
were instructed to have bridges and causeways made be-
tween Shrewsbury and the county town. But travelling
was of necessity difficult then, even in the most favoured
parts of the kingdom. Macaulay tells us that at the
close of the reign of Charles the Second travelling was
exceedingly laborious. Goods and passengers were often
carried on trains of pack-horses. Six horses were fre-
quently needed to draw a gentleman's carriage to places
only a few miles distant from London. What must the
conditions have been in places so distant as this county !
He gives us an example in the journey of a viceroy going
to Ireland by way of Chester and Holyhead in the year
1685. The viceroy was five hours travelling from
St Asaph to Conway a distance of only fourteen miles.
Between Conway and Beaumaris he was forced to walk
a great part of the way, and his lady was carried in a
litter. His coach was, with much difficulty, and by the
help of many hands, brought after him entire. In general,
carriages were taken to pieces at Conway, and borne, on
the shoulders of stout Welsh peasants, to the Menai
Straits. One chief cause of the badness of the roads
seems to have been the defective state of the law. Every
parish was bound to repair the highways which passed
COMMUNICATIONS
133
through it. The peasantry were forced to give their
gratuitous labour six days in the year. If this was not
sufficient, hired labour was employed, and the expense
was met by a parochial rate.
Matters were very little better at the opening of the
eighteenth century, and for many decades after this, until
Old Coach Bridge, Dinas Mawddwy
the Turnpike Trusts were formed by Act of Parliament.
The first Act was that of 1758, which affected only a
very small part of this county. There followed another
in 1768, entitled an "Act for repairing and widening
several roads in the counties of Salop, Montgomery, and
Merioneth." This Act had reference only to the chief
roads leading from the east in continuation of the main
134 MERIONETHSHIRE
road from Shropshire. But nearly fifty years after this,
when the Rev. Walter Davies (Gwallter Mechain) made
his report to the Government, the roads were in a
sorry state. He says of North Wales in general that
there were comparatively but few miles of " travelable
roads within the whole district. Coal for fuel, and lime
for manure could not be carried in quantities to any great
distance."
The modern improvement in road construction dates
from the opening years of the latter half of the last
century. At the present time nothing strikes the tourist
with greater admiration than the excellent public roads
now existing in all parts of the county. Some of these
have been constructed at immense labour and expense.
The circuitous road of the vale of Mawddach from
Barmouth to Dolgelly through Bontddu and Llanelltyd
is a magnificent piece of work. It has been engineered
with great skill and in some parts of its course it has cost
as much as two guineas a square yard to make.
Another road which entailed great expense, but is of
great utility, is that from Pont Aberglaslyn to Penrhyn-
deudraeth. Before its construction, travellers were obliged
to skirt the mountain side, or what was equally incon-
venient and more dangerous, to seek a guide to lead the
way by the winding route over the Traeth Mawr sands.
As this was passable only at low tides, it often entailed
detention for a day or night. The present road, winding
around an amphitheatre of mountains, is one of the most
pleasing in the whole of Wales. The main road from
Barmouth to join it passes through Dyffryn Ardudwy by
COMMUNICATIONS 135
Llanbedr and Harlech along an elevated level, in full
view of the sea.
From Dolgelly the main road to Bala and Llangollen
runs almost parallel with the railway. It passes over
Drwsynant and crosses the main watershed to descend to
Llanuwchllyn. It then skirts the Bala Lake and passes
through the town of Bala, Llandrillo, Corwen, and Glyn
Dyfrdwy to Llangollen. The county town is connected
with Festiniog in the north by the steep-gradient road
which passes through the Ganllwyd and Trawsfynydd,
to descend into Maentwrog, then ascend again by a
winding gradient into the slate-quarrying area. Festiniog
is also connected with the east of the county by the main
road to Bala, which crosses the Migneint to enter the
vale of Tryweryn and proceed by Frongoch and Rhiwlas
to join the Dolgelly and Llangollen road.
Bala and Dolgelly have each direct communication
with Dinas Mawddwy. The road from the former skirts
the southern shores of the lake and then ascends the
Berwyn mountains at Rhydybont, passing over Bwlch-y-
Groes pass. The road from Dolgelly crosses the ridge
after a steep ascent to Bwlch Oerddrws. At Gwanas
this road branches off to Towyn and Corris, and skirts
the base of Cader Idris, passing by Tal-y-llyn Lake and
Abergynolwyn to the seaside resort. There is also a
road from Dolgelly along the left bank of the Mawddach
to Penmaenpool, then in a direct line to Arthog, where it
gradually ascends to Llwyngwril, and proceeds along the
coast to Towyn and Aberdovey.
The county is well served by railways both coastwise
136 MERIONETHSHIRE
and inland. The coastal district is served by the Cambrian
Railway. The main line from Montgomeryshire in one
direction, and Aberystwyth in the other, enters the county
after leaving Dovey Junction, and proceeds through Aber-
dovey, Towyn, Llwyngwril, and Barmouth Junction,
from which it crosses the Mawddach Estuary by the long
trestle bridge to Barmouth. It proceeds thence along
the coast through Dyffryn, Harlech, Penrhyndeudraeth,
Minffordd, Portmadoc, and Criccieth, to Avonwen and
Pwllheli.
At Minffordd the Festiniog narrow-gauge railway
meets the Cambrian. It passes through Penrhyn, Tan-y-
Bwlch, and Tan-y-Grisiau, and terminates at Festiniog.
The Cambrian connection with Dolgelly leaves Barmouth
Junction and passes through Arthog and Penmaenpool.
The Great Western Railway enters the county from
Ruabon and Llangollen on the east at Berwyn, and thence
proceeds by Glyndyfrdwy, Carrog, Corwen, Llandrillo,
and Llandderfel to Bala Junction. It branches there, one
connection leading through Llanuwchllyn, Drwsynant,
and Bontnewydd to Dolgelly with running powers to
Barmouth. The other connection proceeds to Blaenau
Festiniog through Bala, Frongoch, Arenig, Cwm Prysor,
Trawsfynydd, Maentwrog, and Manod. This route from
Bala to Festiniog is probably the wildest and most im-
pressive stretch of railway travelling in the whole of
England and Wales.
The London and North Western Railway enters the
county in the north, having come from Llandudno
Junction through Bettws-y-Coed, and passes by a very
ffl
138 MERIONETHSHIRE
long tunnel under the Arenig Fawr to terminate at
Blaenau Festiniog. The Denbigh, Ruthin, and Corwen
branch of the same railway enters the county at Derwen
and passes through Gwyddelwern before arriving at
Corwen.
At Towyn a small branch line proceeds to the slate-
quarries of Abergynolwyn by Rhydyronen, Brynglas,
and Dolgoch villages.
Another little branch line of a narrow-gauge descrip-
tion leaves Machynlleth and communicates with the
Corris quarries, terminating at Aberllefenni, whilst a
similar line leaves Cemmaes Road and proceeds up the
Dovey valley to Dinas Mawddwy.
22. Administration and Divisions-
Ancient and Modern.
In order to understand properly the present adminis-
tration and government of the county it will be best to
consider its divisions before the Tudor Period, when it
was made shire ground according to English laws.
Throughout the history of our particular territory we
find that whenever changes were made in its government
and administration, great care was exercised in adapting
them to established customs, so that old institutions were
not uprooted and supplanted by the new conditions
introduced.
Meirionydd under the native princes constituted a
third part of the territory of Gwynedd, and it was ruled
ADMINISTRATION .AND DIVISIONS 139
by its prince from AberfFraw. We learn from Sir John
Price's Description of Wales, of the reign of Henry VIII,
prepared in the form of a petition from the Welsh people
for the purpose of effecting the union of Wales with
England, that Meirionydd consisted of three cantrevs or
hundreds having three cwmmwds or commotes in each ;
these were Cantrev Meirion, Cantrev Penllyn, and
Cantrev Arwystli. The three commotes of Meirion
were Talybont, Pennal, and Ystumaner ; of Penllyn,
Uwch-meloch, Is-meloch, and Migneint ; of Arwystli,
Uwchcoed, Iscoed, and Garthrynion.
The cantrev or hundred was the division of a country
next in size to a shire, and has been generally recognised
to mean, although perhaps not in a strict sense, one
hundred free families. When we look at the great
disparity in size of some of the hundreds, we naturally
conclude that the term cantrev was not always limited
to the same definite number, but meant a group, or
assemblage of trevs.
The trev signified the family, not exactly in the
sense that it was limited to the immediate bond of
relationship of parent and child, but a clan or assemblage
of blood-kindred, who associated themselves with the
head of the family. The cant-trev or hundred was thus a
joint family, and implied a common descent and brother-
hood of its members. Every separate cantrev had its
own hereditary head or leader. The land of the cantrev
belonged to the whole family in common, and was
partitioned among the males to the fourth generation,
but no one could transfer or sell his rights without first
140 MERIONETHSHIRE
obtaining the sanction of the whole family. The son
was not compelled to wait till his father died ere he
obtained land ; he received his portion as soon as he
attained to man's estate.
The division into cantrevs and cwmmwds is of very
early origin, and the limits of each appear to have been
well-established and generally recognised in the tenth
century, when Howel Dda compiled his famous code of
laws and collected his catalogue of Welsh customs.
The Cantrev of Meirionydd was first known as
Cantrev Orddwy, that is, the Hundred of the Ordovices.
When, however, the Gaels were driven out by the men
of Cunedda, it was called the territory of Meirion, after
the northern chieftain's grandson. The limits of this
hundred were the tidal estuary of the Dovey on the
south, and the main water-parting of the county on the
north. Its religious and ecclesiastical centre was at
Towyn, in the notable church founded by St Cadvan in
the sixth century, the mother church of the hundred.
Its commotes of Ystumaner and Talybont were separated
by the river Dysynni. These names are suggestive of
two ancient strongholds of the lords of Meirionydd.
Ystumaner has its fortified rock of Castell-y-Bere which
ultimately was crowned with a medieval castle. Talybont
near the village of Llanegryn has its ancient primitive
mound, while the annals of the county tell us of a castle
of Cymmer. We have thus the temporal strongholds and
the spiritual retreat within the compass of the territory.
The Cantrev of Penllyn is encompassed on all sides
by high and rugged mountains, with Llyn Tegid at its
ADMINISTRATION AND DIVISIONS 141
centre. The old home of Llywarch Hen, the veteran
warrior and princely poet of the seventh century, stands
here. He held his court on the mound near Llanfor
church which still bears his name. King Arthur of
legend and romance is reputed to have lived on the lake-
side at Caergai, which appears to have given the domain
its name of Penllyn, although in later times Y Bala
(" The Outlet ") was the site of the chief stronghold of
the cantrev. Arwystli, the cantrev of the head waters
of the Severn, is not now a part of our county.
The county is now divided into the five hundreds
of Ardudwy, Penllyn, Ystumaner, Talybont, and
Edeyrnion. By the Act of 1536, Arwystli was annexed
to Montgomeryshire, whilst the commotes of Edeyrnion
and Glyndyfrdwy were taken from Powys and annexed to
Meirionydd, and the independent and lawless lordship
of Mawddwy was similarly attached.
In English law every hundred was divided into
townships, or, as they are now called, parishes. Every
township was privileged to have its own local assembly
or parliament, where every freeman had a right to appear,
and in which they appointed their own officers to carry
out the laws. The whole country was divided into
parishes as early as the reign of Edward III. In addition
to the courts of the shire and hundred, there were courts
of the manor presided over by the "Lord of the Manor."
These courts were known as court-leets, where the lord
met his tenants, and arranged all matters which pertained
to the manor, such as the holding of fairs and markets,
and the privilege of common rights. This court continues
1 42 MERIONETHSHIRE
to be held in most counties once a year, but it is kept
up mainly because of its antiquity.
The manors of olden times may be said to correspond
in a measure with the ecclesiastical parishes, of which
we have- 43 situated wholly or in part within the ancient
geographical county of Merioneth. The parishes vary
very much in size, number of houses, and population.
Some are large and some are very small. The two
largest parishes in the county are Llanfor and Traws-
fynydd with over 30,000 acres in each ; the three next
in point of size are Dolgelly, Llanuwchllyn, and Llanycil
with over 20,000 acres in each. The smallest parish of
the county is Llansantffraid-Glyn-Dyfrdwy, which has
only 670 acres.
In the administrative county there are 39 civil parishes,
which are grouped together for the care of the poor into
five Poor Law Unions, over each of which there is a
Board of Guardians. The workhouses are at Bala, Cor-
wen, Dolgelly, and Penrhyndeudraeth, where the destitute
and incapable are given employment and cared for.
The Act of 1888 brought into existence the County
Councils, whose powers cover the county as a whole.
The County Council levies rates and borrows money
for public works subject to the sanction of the Local
Government Board. It is responsible for the whole
administrative business of the county, such as carrying
into effect the laws passed by Parliament, keeping roads
and bridges in good repair, managing lunatic asylums
and reformatories, and exercising control over Education,
both elementary and secondary ; while in conjunction
ADMINISTRATION AND DIVISIONS 143
with the Quarter Sessions it manages the police affairs, and
appoints coroners and officers to look after the health of the
community. The Merionethshire County Council, which
meets in rotation at Dolgelly, Bala and Festiniog, consists
of 57 members, of whom 43, called councillors, are elected
every three years by ratepayers of the county, while 14,
called aldermen, are elected or co-opted by the councillors
for a period of six years.
In 1894 was passed the Parish and District Councils
Act, which confers upon parishioners a good deal of
power in the management of local affairs. There are
31 Parish Councils in this county, and six Town and
Urban District Councils located at Bala, Barmouth,
Dolgelly, Festiniog, Mallwyd, and Towyn, together with
five Rural District Councils at Deudraeth, Dolgelly,
Edeyrnion, Penllyn, and Pennal.
For the administration of justice the county is in the
North Wales and Chester Judicial Circuit, the Assizes
being held at Dolgelly twice a year. The county is
very free from crime and the judges on circuit are often
presented with white gloves. It has one court of
Quarter Sessions held at Bala and Dolgelly four times
a year, while Petty Sessions presided over by local justices
of the peace are held at six centres, namely at Dolgelly
for the petty sessional division of Talybont; at Bala for
the division of Penllyn ; at Towyn for the division of
Ystumaner ; at Corwen for the division of Edeyrnion ;
at Blaenau Festiniog for the division of Ardudwy-uwch-
Artro ; and at Barmouth for the division of Ardudwy-is-
Artro. The police force consists of a Chief Constable,
144
MERIONETHSHIRE
one superintendent, two inspectors, five sergeants, and
25 constables, making a force of 34 men, with its head
office at Dolgelly.
The chief person in the county in an official capacity
is the Lord Lieutenant, who in virtue of his office
occupies a similar position to the ealdorman of former
times. He is the personal representative of the Sovereign,
Dolgelly
who appoints him, and is either a nobleman or a large
land-owner. He remains in office for life.
The next official of the greatest importance is the
High Sheriff, who corresponds to the ancient shire-reeve
of earlier times. His appointment is an annual one,
made on "the morrow of St Martin's Day," that is,
November I2th, by the King. The Sheriff holds office
ADMINISTRATION AND DIVISIONS 145
for a twelve-month only, and it entails upon him very
great expense. His main duty is legal, and he usually
appoints an Under Sheriff, who may be a solicitor or a
person well-versed in the law. The Sheriff has to make
all the necessary arrangements for his Majesty's Justices
of Assize when they visit the county to try the cases sent
to them from the Quarter Sessions.
The parliamentary representation of Merionethshire
is limited to one member. The county has no parlia-
mentary nor municipal borough.
In ecclesiastical matters the county comprises 43
parishes, and is included in part in the diocese of Bangor,
and in part in that of St Asaph.
The market towns are Dolgelly and Corwen.
23. The Roll of Honour of the County.
Of the Merionethshire men who have reached high
positions as statesmen and lawyers we have Baron Lewis
Owen, a native of Dolgelly. He occupied the important
office of Vice-Chamberlain and Baron of the Exchequer
of North Wales in the reigns of Henry VIII, Edward VI,
and Mary. He was member for the county in the par-
liaments of 1547, T 55 2 ) an d I 554? an d was High Sheriff in
1546, and in 1555 the year he was murdered. Colonel
John Jones of Maesygarnedd, the Regicide, played an
important part in the great civil war of the seventeenth
century. He held high office under Commonwealth rule,
being one of the Lord Justices of Ireland. He married a
M. M. 10
146
MERIONETHSHIRE)
sister of Oliver Cromwell, and was made by the Protector
a member of the House of Lords. Baron Richard
Richards of Caerynwch became Baron of the Exchequer
in 1814, and Lord Chief Baron three years later. His
eldest son Richard was one of the Masters in Ordinary
Thomas Edward Ellis
of the High Court of Chancery, and M.P. for the county
at the time of his father's death. Sir John Williams,
Solicitor-General in the Parliament of 1830, became a
Baron of the Exchequer and won high repute as a criminal
judge. Thomas Edward Ellis of Cynlas, the son of a
THE ROLL OF HONOUR 147
humble farmer, by sheer ability and force of character
became one of the most potent influences in the political
life of Wales in the closing years of the last century.
He represented his native county in Parliament for some
years, and at the time of his death was Chief Whip in
Lord Rosebery's government.
During the continental wars of the eighteenth century
General Henry Lloyd, the son of a clergyman, greatly
distinguished himself. He served in the Russo-Turkish
war of 1774, won great renown at the battle of Silistria,
and later was entrusted with the command of thirty
thousand men in the war with Sweden. He wrote
several works on military matters, in addition to his
well-known History of the Seven Tears 1 War.
In the dark days of the seventeenth century no name
stands out more clearly than that of Morgan Llwyd of
Gwynedd, of the family of Cynfael. He laboured with
great zeal on behalf of Free Church principles. His
famous Llyfr y Tri Aderyn is a Welsh classic. An-
other eminent Nonconformist preacher of this period was
Hugh Owen of Bronyclydwr, the grandson of John Lewis
Owen of Llwyn near Dolgelly, M.P. for the county.
The great theologian and divine of the seventeenth
century, Dr John Owen, was of the same Merioneth-
shire stock as Hugh Owen. He was an attached friend
to Cromwell, and was Vice-Chancellor of the University
of Oxford.
The county is justly proud of Thomas Charles, who,
though of Caermarthenshire birth, did his life-work at
Bala. He was the founder of the Welsh Sabbath School
10 2
148 MERIONETHSHIRE
movement, an organisation which has made the Welsh
the best versed of any people in the scriptures. The
world-famous "British and Foreign Bible Society" was
established by his influence and inspiration. His grand-
daughter was married to Dr Lewis Edwards, who
together with his brother-in-law, David Charles, founded
the Bala Calvinistic Methodist College in 1837. His
son, Dr Thomas Charles Edwards, the first Principal of
Aberystwyth University College, was born at Bala.
The influence of father and son upon the educational
life of Wales cannot be estimated. David Charles, after
five years co-operation with his brother-in-law, was invited
to start Trevecca College upon the same lines as Bala,
and acted as its principal for 20 years. Simon Lloyd,
of Plasyndre, Bala, worked with Thomas Charles in the
early Methodist movement, and after the death of Charles
edited two volumes of T Drysorfa.
In the ranks of great churchmen there stand forth the
names of Ellis Wynne of Lasynys, "Y Bardd Cwcs," as
he is familiarly called, and Edmund Prys, famous for his
metrical version of the Psalms. Dr William Lloyd of
Llangower was chaplain to Charles II. He was made
Bishop of Llandaff in 1675, was translated to Peter-
borough in 1679, and thence to Norwich in 1685.
Dr Humphrey Humphreys, a native of Penrhyndeudraeth,
became Bishop of Bangor in 1689, and was translated
to Hereford in 1701. Dr John Thomas, a native of
Dolgelly, was the son of very poor parents. He
showed early genius and was educated at the Merchant
Taylors' School and Cambridge University by his father's
THE ROLL OF HONOUR 149
employer. He went abroad and became chaplain to the
English factory at Hamburg. In 1743 he was made
Bishop of St Asaph, but before being consecrated he was
translated to Lincoln. In 1761 he was again translated,
this time to Salisbury. David Lloyd, born at Trawsfy-
nydd in 1635, became reader of the Chapter-house. He
was canon of St Asaph and chaplain to the bishop, and
author of several interesting works, his best known being
Statesmen and Favourites of England since the Reformation.
John Ellis, D.D., Archdeacon of Meirionydd, was a
learned antiquary and collaborated with Browne Willis
in collecting material for the latter's survey of the diocese
of Bangor. Griffith Hughes, a native of Towyn, became
rector of St Lucie's, Barbados. He is best known as a
naturalist ; his Natural History of Barbados is a valuable
work, for which he was elected a Fellow of the Royal
Society in 1750. William Wynne, of Maesyneuadd, was
an excellent Welsh poet. His poems are refined and
classical. Several of these may be seen in a little work
published in 1759, and entitled Dewisol Ganiadau yr Oes
bon. Evan Lloyd, one of the Garrick circle of literary
men, was born at Frondderw near Bala, and became vicar
of Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd. He possessed great poetic
abilities. His best known poems are The Power of the
Pen, The Curate, and The Methodist. His satirical
allusion to a neighbouring squire, in The Methodist,
brought him into trouble, and he was imprisoned in
the King's Bench at the same period as the famous
John Wilkes, who wrote the verses now inscribed on
his tombstone in Llanycil church. John Jones, better
1 50 MERIONETHSHIRE
known by his bardic name of "loan Tegid," a native
of Bala, became Vicar of Nevern and prebendary of St
David's Cathedral. His scholarly knowledge of his native
tongue made him- one of the greatest authorities of his
time in Welsh orthography.
Conspicuous among Nonconformist preachers we have
Robert Thomas, " Ap Vychan," a native of Llanuwchllyn,
who was Professor of Theology at Bala. Roger Edwards
a native of Bala was the author of T Tri Brawd a
religious novel, and Editor of T Drysorfa and Traethodydd.
Richard Humphreys of Dyffryn was one of the most
famous of Methodist divines, and his grandson Richard
Humphreys Morgan is noteworthy as the adapter of
Pitman's system of shorthand to the Welsh language.
Finally, Evan Jones, " leuan Gwynedd," will live long in
the affection of his countrymen for his patriotic labours.
The Welsh nation will ever be under a deep debt of
obligation to Robert Vaughan of Hengwrt, the great
scholar and antiquary, born in 1592, for his unrivalled
private collection of Welsh MSS. already referred to.
The copies transcribed by him were made more valuable
by his own scholarly notes and copious annotations. He
died at Hengwrt in 1666. Rowland Vaughan of Caergai,
who was High Sheriff of the county in 1643, belonged to
an equally ancient branch of the Vaughan family as did
the squire of Hengwrt. He did much to improve the
social condition of his poorer countrymen, translating
many excellent works into the vernacular, which he
published at his own cost and distributed among the
poor. Vaughan suffered for his devotion to King Charles
THE ROLL OF HONOUR 151
by having his mansion at Caergai burnt to the ground in
1645 by the Parliamentary forces. Dr William Owen
Pughe, the lexicographer, was a native of Llanfihangel-y-
Pennant, and his son Aneurin Owen, who held important
offices under the Government, was the author of the
well-known work entitled The Ancient Laws and Insti-
tutes of Wales. The county is deservedly proud of John
Tyn-y-Bryn
(Birthplace of William Owen Pughe)
Griffiths, " Y Gohebydd," who was a native of Barmouth.
He was the London correspondent of the Baner ac Am-
serau Cymru^ and aided Sir Hugh Owen in the establish-
ment of British schools in all parts of Wales.
Among poets and bards we have Llywelyn Goch ap
Meurig of Nannau, who flourished in the fourteenth
1 52 MERIONETHSHIRE
century. Six of his poems are printed in the Myvyrian
Archaeology^ and his elegy was written by lolo Goch, the
bard of Owain Glyndwr. Sion Phylip of Ardudwy and
William his brother were eminent poets. The former
died in 1620, and the latter in 1669. William suffered
cruel treatment on account of his Royalist leanings, and
his property was confiscated by the Commonwealth.
David Richards, better known as " Dafydd lonawr," the
author of Cyvuydd y Drindod, was a native of Towyn.
John Phillips, " Tegidon," was born at Llanycil, and
Rice Jones, the compiler of Gorchestion y Beirdd, was a
native of Blaenau Festiniog. Hugh Jones, "Maesglasau,"
Hugh Derfel Hughes, David Ellis, compiler of T Piser
Hir, and Edward Hughes, " Y Dryw," as well as many
others, swell the roll. Among the younger men there
is one who will ever hold an honoured place Robert
Owen of Tai Croesion, who died when only 27 in Aus-
tralia in 1885. His poems are among the most pathetic
and touching in the language.
Among musicians there are Edward Jones, " Bardd y
Brenin," a native of Llandderfel, who filled the post of
bard and harpist to the Prince of Wales in 1774, and
Edward Stephens, " Tanymarian," a native of Fes-
tiniog, and the author of the oratorio, The Storm of
Tiberias.
Among distinguished men in the medical profession
we have GrufFydd Owen, a native of Dolgelly, who
emigrated to America in the early years of the eighteenth
century, and was the first physician of the newly-formed
State of Pennsylvania, Professor Alfred William Hughes
THE ROLL OF HONOUR 153
of Corris ranks among the most famous of Welsh surgeons.
He was for a time at the head of the School of Anatomy
at the University College of Cardiff, which he relinquished
to become professor of Anatomy at the London Univer-
sity. During the last great war in South Africa, he went
out as a surgeon to organise the Welsh Hospital for the
troops, and died there of fever. His memory has been
perpetuated by the erection of a national memorial at
his native place.
Merionethshire may well be proud of Edward Ed-
wards, the marine zoologist and inventor of aquaria for
the preservation of fish. He was a native of Corwen,
and in 1864 was led to study the habits of fish in
their native element among the fissures and rocks of
the Menai Straits; and step by step he perfected an
invention for keeping fish in health in confinement.
The principle of his tank has been adopted in all aquaria
in our country as well as on the Continent and in
America.
24. THE CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES
OF MERIONETHSHIRE.
(The figures in brackets after each name give the population of
the parish in 1911, from the official returns, and those at
the end of each paragraph are references to the pages in the
text.)
Aberdovey (1466) is a small seaport on the Dovey estuary.
It exports slates from Corris and Aberllefenni to the extent of
nearly 5000 tons annually. It has considerable coasting trade
and a regular communication with Ireland. Much fishing is
done in the estuary. There is a station on the Cambrian
Railway. Direct communication is made with Borth on the
opposite coast by means of a ferry which serves at high tide.
Its golf links enjoy a national reputation, and the mildness and
salubrity of its climate render it a favourite resort at all seasons
of the year. (pp. 8, 45, 51, 65, 79, 80, 82, 90, 135, 136.)
Abergynolwyn is a village seven miles inland north-east
of Towyn, with which communication is maintained by a little
narrow-gauge railway. The main occupation of the people is
slate-quarrying. The village lies partly in the parish of Tal-y-
llyn and partly in that of Llanfihangel-y-Pennant. (pp. 35, 71,
i35, n8.)
Aberllefenni is a village in the Corris quarry district. It
stands on a feeder of the Dulas river, and is charmingly situated
in a secluded glen, being sheltered on the north by Mynydd
Ceiswyn, an offshoot of the Cader Idris ridge. It is reached
by the Corris narrow-gauge railway from Machynlleth, which
terminates here. (pp. 35, 71, 138.)
CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 155
Arthog is a small village near the Mawddach mouth, and
only a very short distance from Barmouth Junction. The
Dolgelly branch of the Cambrian Railway has a station here.
Near the village is the fine mansion of Garthyngharad, formerly
the residence of the Wyatts. (pp. 46,. 71, 129, 135, 136.)
Bala (1537) a small town and the head of a Poor Law Union
district is situated at the north-east end of Llyn Tegid. The
Great Western Railway has a station here on its Ruabon and
Festiniog branch line. It is a seat of Petty Sessions, and the
Quarter Sessions are held here in April and October. The
place is a great resort of anglers and tourists. Flannel manu-
facture and brewing are the chief industries; in former times it
was the centre of a great trade in stockings and socks. The
Calvinistic Methodist Theological College stands on rising ground
a little outside the town. Until recent years there was an
Independent College here also, but this has been transferred to
Bangor. In front of Capel Tegid there stands a fine monument
to Thomas Charles, the founder of Sunday Schools. It possesses,
too, a fine bronze statue of the late T. E. Ellis, M.P. "The
Green " an open space near the railway station is celebrated in
poetry and song for its great religious assemblies. The "Tomen
y Bala" is an ancient artificial mound. The whole neighbourhood
is rich in historical and traditional lore. (pp. 18, 23, 34, 36, 42,
54, 78, 127, 136, 143.)
Barmouth (2106), on the northern side of the Mawddach
estuary, is a fashionable watering place. By the Welsh it is
called Abermaw. The Cambrian Railway has a station here.
The line is carried across the broad estuary by a long timber-
trestle bridge 800 yards in length, which also has a gangway
for foot passengers from Arthog and Barmouth Junction. Its
prosperity depends upon the visitors and tourists. It has a fine
stretch of sandy beach, and the commanding views from the
high ground behind the town are very fine. The town is
156 MERIONETHSHIRE
governed by an Urban District Council. It possesses a Secondary
School under the Welsh Intermediate Education Act. (pp. 17,
34, 46, 56, 65, 70, 76, 99, 112, 134, 136, 141, 143.)
Bettws-Gwerfil-Goch (232) is a hamlet and a parish
three miles west of Gwyddelwern station on the L. and N. W.
Railway, and six miles north-west of Corwen. The district
is purely rural. At Bottegir, now a farmhouse, lived the famous
Colonel Salisbury, familiarly known as " Hosannau Glehion"
"Blue Stockings," the sturdy Royalist Governor of Denbigh
Castle, who defended it . against the Parliamentary forces for
fourteen weeks.
Bontddu is a small village beautifully situated half-way
between Barmouth and Dolgelly. The Clogau gold mines in
the woody dell which divides the village in two, give employ-
ment to many hands, (pp. 21, 75, 76, 134.)
Brithdir is a small village three and a half miles to the
north-west of Dolgelly, Bontnewydd is its nearest railway station,
(p. 52.)
Corris (1079) on th e Dulas, a tributary of the Dovey, is a
village and a township in Tal-y-llyn parish. It lies six miles to
the north-east of Machynlleth. The great majority of the men
are engaged in the slate-quarries, where slate of an excellent
quality is obtained, (pp. 35, 70.)
Corwen (2856) is a market town and a parish on the Dee,
some ten miles to the west of the town of Llangollen. It has a
station at the junction of the Llangollen and Bala branch of the
G. W. R. with the Chester, Denbigh, and Ruthin branch of the
L. and N. W. R. The town is the head of a Poor Law Union
and County Court District, and also a seat of Petty Sessions.
Slate is quarried in the neighbourhood and there are a few small
flannel factories which give employment to many hands. It is a
quiet old-fashioned town and is much frequented by anglers.
CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 157
The church is of ancient date and contains a monument to
lorwerth ap Sulien; in the churchyard there is an eighth century
cross. Rug mansion near by, a seat of the Wynne family,
contains a knife and a dagger said to have been the property
of Owain Glyndwr. (pp. 36, 42, 54, 70, 92, 98, 129, 136, 138,
142, 143, 145.)
Corwen
Dinas Mawddwy at the terminus ot the Mawddwy
narrow-gauge railway from Cemmaes Road on the Cambrian
Railway was at one time an important corporate town, but is
now a decayed village. It is ten miles south-east of Dolgelly.
Formerly it was one of the five independent lordships of Wales,
and was not united to the county of Merioneth until the reign
of Henry VIII, when it bore a very ill name. Some of its
ruffians cruelly murdered the Baron Lewis Owen because he had
condemned eighty of their confreres to suffer the extreme penalty
of the law for various crimes in 1554. The spot in the woods
1 58 MERIONETHSHIRE
of Mawddwy where he was murdered when returning from the
Montgomery Sessions in 1555 is still known as Llydiart-y-Barwn.
A court leet is still held there twice a year. Some slate-quarrying
is carried on, and it is famous for its wild and romantic scenery.
(PP- 23, 36, ?6, 77, 81, 96, 97, 138.)
Dolgelly (2160) is a market and county town on the
Wnion. It is the head of a County Court division. The
Cambrian and G. W. Railways run into the town, and it is a
convenient centre for tourists and anglers. It has a manufactory
of flannels and coarse woollen cloths; tanning and currying are
also carried on here. Two weekly papers are printed and
published in the town T Goleuad and T Dydd. A path
leads 'from the town to the summit of Cader Idris. The sur-
rounding scenery is extremely varied and beautiful. An ancient
house called Cwrt Plas-yn-dre stood here till lately, associated
traditionally with Owain Glyndwr, an interesting specimen of
sixteenth century architecture. In 1404 Glyndwr dated his
letter from the town, when he entered into an alliance with the
King of France against Henry IV. The Dolgelly Grammar
School is an anciently endowed foundation which has turned
out several men of note. Dr Williams's Endowed School is a
famous school for girls, and the County School under the Welsh
Intermediate Education Act gives abundant opportunities for
secondary education, (pp. 18, 25, 27, 35, 37, 42, 70, 77, 92, 93,
100, 125, 130, 131, 134, 135, 136, 142, 143, 144, 145.)
Dyffryn is a straggling village near the coast about five
miles to the north of Barmouth. Passengers by train alight at
the little station when they intend to proceed to Drws Ardudwy
and the Roman Steps, (pp. 48, 136, 150.)
Festiniog (9682) is a large slate-quarrying area, having
many industrial villages, of which the chief are Llan, Blaenau,
Conglywal, Rhiw, Manod, and Tan-y-Grisiau. It has an Urban
District Council. The G. W. R. and L. and N. W. R. have
CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 159
communications with the place, as well as the Toy Railway from
Portmadoc. The place has many chapels, churches, elementary
and secondary schools, (pp. 27, 35, 70, 72, 82, 136, 143.)
Gwyddelwern (711) is a village and a parish near the
borders of Denbighshire, and about two and a half miles north
of Corwen. It has a station on the Corwen and Denbigh branch
of the L. and N. W. Railway.
Harlech is an ancient little place, ten miles to the
north of Barmouth. It was at one time the county town, and
enjoys the unique privilege of being a free borough, whatever
that may mean, since the reign of Edward I. The Cambrian
Railway has a station here. Its renowned castle gives the place
its significance, for it has played important parts in the history
of our land from very early times. The Harlech golf links are
now considered among the best in Wales, (pp. 34, 48, 76, 80,
95, 96, 101, 102, 104, 118, 120, 121, 136.)
Llanbedr (320) is a pretty little village and a parish on
the river Artro, two miles south of Harlech. It has a station on
the Cambrian Railway, and is one of the best fishing stations in
the county. It is a centre for visitors exploring the Ardudwy
country, (pp. 21, 48, 76, 80, no, 131.)
Llandderfel (785) is a parish and a township on the
river Dee, four miles to the east of Bala. It has a station on
the G. W. R. The Dee in its meanderings by the village
proceeds through charming scenery. The church of Derfel
Gadarn is an interesting structure, containing some curious relics,
among which is a wooden crosier, (pp. 18,43, 5 2 > I>][ 3> I 3> r 36.)
Llandrillo (591) a village and a parish five miles to the
south-west of Corwen. It has a station on the G. W. R. Slate
is quarried in the neighbourhood. The village is the starting
point for visiting the waterfall known as Pistyll Rhaiadr, and for
the ascent of the Berwyns. (pp. 18, 109, 114, 136.)
160 MERIONETHSHIRE
Llanegryn (560) is a village and a parish along the
southern bank of the Dysynni river. The village is situated
some two and a half miles from the coast. The township of
Peniarth is comprised in the confines of the parish, (pp. 23,
in, 113, 1 16, 140.)
Llanelltyd (450) is a parish and a small village on the
upper Mawddach two miles distant from Dolgelly. Cymmer
Abbey and the Hengwrt mansion are in the neighbourhood,
(pp. 20, 82, 109.)
Llanfachreth (711) is the name of a parish, and a
village situated three and a half miles to the north-east of
Dolgelly. It is almost at the source of the Mawddach. It
contains the famous old mansion of Nannau. At one time it
was noted for its mineral resources, (pp. 17, 76, 116.)
Llanfihangel-y- Pennant (457) is a parish, and a
small village situated about seven miles to the north-east of
Towyn. The village is on the Dysynni. The church is ancient
and has a rare specimen of a leper window. Castell-y-Bere lies
in the parish, (pp. 23, 109, in.)
Llanfrothen (86 1) is the name of a parish in the reaches
of the Traeth Mawr. The village is about one mile from
Penrhyndeudraeth.
Llangar (572) is a parish on the Dee; the township is at
the influx of the Alwen into the Dee. It is one and a half miles
to the south-west of Corwen. (pp. 1 1 o, 114.)
Llansantffraid-GlYn-Dyfrdwy (170) is a small parish
and a village situated on the Dee, two miles to the east of Corwen.
Its nearest station is Carrog on the G. W. R. The chief residence
is Rhagatt. (pp. 19, 142.)
Llanuwchllyn (1007) is a large parish at the western end
of Bala Lake. It contains many old mansions and places of great
CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 161
interest connected with the history and antiquities of the county.
The village has a station on the G. W. R. (pp. 18, 76, 109, 136,
142.)
Llanycil (904) a hamlet and a parish on the shores of
Bala Lake. In its churchyard there lie buried many famous
men, among whom are Thomas Charles, Dr Lewis Edwards,
Professor John Peters and Dr Hugh Williams, (pp. 109, 142.)
Llan-y-Mawddwy (323) is a parish at the head of the
upper waters of the Dovey, under the Aran Mawddwy mountain.
The village is peopled in the main by slate-quarrying folk. A
retired spot called Gwely Tydecho close to the roadside is said
to be the retreat of the saint of that name. (pp. 23, 131.)
Llwyngwril is a pretty little village in Llangelynin parish
situated near the coast, six and a half miles to the north of
Towyn. It has a station on the Cambrian Railway. There
are many ancient remains in the neighbourhood, the chief being
Castell y Gaer close to the village. It has an interesting old
burial ground belonging to the Quakers ; the date 1 646 is
inscribed on the entrance gate. The village is becoming a
favourite resort of visitors during the summer months. Just
two miles to the north is Y Friog, a small village contiguous to
the new health resort of Fairbourne. (pp. 46, 129, 135.)
Maentwrog (652) is a charming place, and a parish in
the Dwyryd valley. The Sarn Helen of the Romans traverses
the parish. The village is ten miles to the north-east of Harlech.
It has taken its name from a monumental stone of great size
erected to the memory of Twrog, son of Cadvan, a sixth century
saint. Archdeacon Edmund Prys was rector of the parish, and
his body has been buried in the church. Here he translated the
Psalms into the Metrical Version, (pp. 22, 35, 104.)
Mallwyd (757) is a village and a parish lying partly in this
county and partly in Montgomeryshire. The village stands on
the river Dovey in the midst of beautiful mountain scenery. It
M. M. 1 1
162 MERIONETHSHIRE
is a favourite resort of anglers and artists. The church is an
ancient building made famous by its vicar Dr John Davies, the
eminent scholar and antiquary, (pp. 109, 143.)
Pennal (430) a village and a parish on the Sarn Helen
lies four miles to the west of Machynlleth. By some authorities
this place is identified with the Maglona of the Romans. In the
grounds of Talgarth Park stands a huge mound or totnen which
has yielded many Roman coins to excavators, (pp. 103, 105.)
Penrhyndeudraeth (1988) is a pleasantly situated village
at the head of the Traeth Bach. It is served by the Cambrian
and the Festiniog Toy Railway. The men who live here are
mostly engaged in the quarries of Festiniog. On the northern
side of the Traeth standing in its own lovely grounds is the
modern castellated mansion of Deudraeth, the seat of the Lord
Lieutenant of the County, (pp. 49, 134, 136, 142, 143.)
Towyn (3929) is a pleasant seaside town with fine sands and
promenade. The Cambrian railway passes through the place
and it holds communication with the slate quarrying district of
Abergynolwyn by means of a narrow-gauge railway. Its church
is of ancient foundation. The town is provided with a Secondary
School under the Welsh Intermediate Education Act. (pp. 45, 56,
65, 67, 76, 79, 80, 81, 109, no, 113, 128, 135, 138, 140, 143.)
TYawsfynydd is a quarrymen's village situated in an
elevated area on the Afon Prysor, about five miles south of
Festiniog, and eleven miles to the north of Dolgelly. The Bala
and Festiniog section of the G. W. R. passes near to the village,
and the Sarn Helen leads through it from the south on its way
to Tomen-y-Mur, some two miles further north. The neighbour-
hood has many ancient remains in the form of encampments,
tumuli, stone circles, etc. Great efforts at gold-mining have
been made at various times in the neighbourhood. The lakes
of the parish abound in fish and are famous for excellent sport,
(pp. 23, 27, 89, 102, 109, 142.)
DIAGRAMS
163
England & Wales
37.337-537
Fig. i. Area of Merionethshire (422,372 acres) compared
with that of England and of Wales
England & Wales
36,070,492
Fig. 2. Population of Merionethshire (45,565) compared
with that of England and of Wales in 1911
164
MERIONETHSHIRE
Merionethshire, 69 Wales, 271 Glamorganshire, 1382
England and Wales, 618
(Each dot represents ten persons)
Fig. 3. Comparative Density of Population per square mile
in Merionethshire, Wales, England and Wales, and
Glamorganshire in 191 1
Other Crops &
Bare Fallow (25 acres)
13,879 acres
Fig. 4. Proportionate area under Corn Crops in
Merionethshire in 1912
DIAGRAMS
165
Fig. 5. Proportionate areas of chief Cereals in
Merionethshire in 1912
Other Crops, Fruit and
Bare Fallow 3,353
Clover, Sainfoin & Rotation
Grasses 10,526 acres
acres
Fig. 6. Proportionate areas of land in Merionethshire
in 1912
166 MERIONETHSHIRE
Fig. 7. Proportionate numbers of Live-stock in
Merionethshire in 1912
CAMBRIDGE: PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A. AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS
Morris, A
740 Merionethshire
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